We left a freezing and raining day in Corryong on July 10. Yes. Too cold for us to stay at home. Travelled to a lovely and free reserve camp site at Galore near Narrandera NSW. It was on a river with very low water. Cold but with the diesel heater and now an electric blanket to keep us warm we were snug and got a good night sleep.

Travelled on the Sturt highway following the Murrumbidgee River to Hay for lunch. A free camp site called Sandy Point on the edge of Hay was too good to move on, so we set up camp for the night once again on the banks of the Murrumbidgee. Walked to a water tower which features mural paintings of the War heroes from Hay. Vans just kept arriving throughout the day, so despite choosing an isolated spot, we got crowded in anyway.

12th. Long day with over 400ks with 200 on rough gravel roads that needed a good grading but the end result was amazing. Followed the Perth railway track across from Ivanhoe. Saw lots of emus, foxes and a few kangaroos although it was very dry with all the dams empty. Eventually we finished at Menindee and camped by Lake Pamamaroo . Worried about sites as we believed it to be crowded but found a good site on the lake edge. Absolutely beautiful. The sunset is just amazing. Full moon to finish it off. Fire with BBQ lamb chops yummo.

13th. Lovely day on the lake but unfortunately very strong winds and a little cold. Had a drive around the weirs after releasing a couple women campers bogged in the sand. Lazy day spent reading inside.

14th. The van batteries seem to have died giving not much voltage so decided to travel into Broken Hill and see what our options are. Yep storage capacity dead. Two new batteries ouch. But they are a necessity. I went over and grocery shopped Left Digby to change the batteries over. Broken Hill was interesting but didn’t stay long as we wanted to get over to the Darling as we planned. Filled water tank in van as it was drained completely empty. Dump run then filled with fuel. Ouch again. Went through Wilcannia. Don’t blink as you will miss it. Found a lovely spot 25 minutes north . Right on the Darling with the Moo cows coming to investigate who is at our waterhole? Lovely evening sitting around the fire and moths. A cuppa of Billy tea made on the fire. Yummo. My favourite.

15th It rained all night, just a light drizzle and nothing to worry about. Packed and got ready to move, and had absolutely no traction. Car and van sliding sideways heading for the river 30 m below. Winched from a handy tree with the car and van making like a pendulum, then another handy tree before we were finally on flat enough ground for the car to move the van forwards. Whew. Out to the road and turned right to continue on to Tilpa 90 km away. Seems ok at first, slippery but moving along at 40 kph. Then we started to hit black soil on the road, especially on flood ways. No traction, but just able to keep moving with 4wd and diff lock. Couldn’t turn around for to drive into the spoon drain would have us stay there, so pushed on very slowly. Sometimes down to 2kph. Finally found a firm verge to pull off the road and camp till it dries out.

16th. Sat on the verge for the day to see if all dries out. Lovely day scraping mud off the troopie and van. Ugh what a mess. But needed the day to let the road dry out. 6 cars came through that arvo. So gave us hope to push on tomorrow. Luckily lots of dead timber around so had a lovely fire going all day. Let’s see what tomorrow will bring us. Stars 🌟 out tonight so should be a lovely clear sunny day……. Tomorrow.

17th Travelled slowly on into Tilpa after watching 5 large caravans heading down to Wilcannia. If they made it, we can. Still wet but driving along the previous car’s backtrack made it easier. Went through Tilpa. Only a hotel and a couple of houses. Campground opposite hotel not very good but could be used in an emergency. Kept going onto Louth. Once again very small outback town and decided to go onto Bourke. Arrived and went straight to the truck wash. Spent 20 dollars on car wash to be met with two angry and arrogant men stating bloody Victorian tourist dropping off their mud in their car wash. Told then that there is a free truck wash out of town near the racecourse. Spent an hour washing mud off the troopie and the van until near nightfall. Drove north of Bourke to a boat ramp and spent the night there.

18th Discovered this morning another bolt broke on the wheel axle of the van. Also had heaps of laundry to do so decided to book into the Mitchell caravan park for the night. Digby repaired the van whilst I washed and washed and washed. Cold night, so had a lovely pizza cooked in the camp kitchen pizza oven. Very noisy spot we are in with traffic on the highway just metres from our site.

19th and Digby’s birthday.Happy birthday to you . Happy birthday to Digby. 76years Old omgossh…….
All good to go with clean clothes, full water, empty toilet and fully charged batteries, on the van as well as us. Off north to Cunnamulla pub for lunch then a few more kms to near Eulo and the Paroo river for camp. Tried to find a billabong noted on WikiCamps but the track didn’t go where we expected it to go, so gave up and went back to the Paroo crossing. A dozen or so vans pulled in on the east side while we were by ourselves in the west. Perfect.

20th Spent most of the day driving. Went through Eulo then Quilpie. Pulled up 3.30 at a roadside Wiki camps site. Deserted. Lots of flies. Suppose we have to get used to them again. But at least its 17 degrees. so not cold cold freezing cold. I collected firewood and asked Digby to help me with this log. Hah ha huge I’m slowly training him. Glad to be off the road as there has been lots of horse floats pulling caravans on the road we think coming from Birdsville races. Quiet night tonight and no one else staying here.

21st. Travelled on into Windorah today. Found a nice spot on the banks of the Coopers Creek crossing. Went into town and fueled up the Troopy again. Near empty so drained the fuel bowser at the shop hah ha. There are a few caravans around. Lovely sunset.

22nd Day of little repairs. Washing. Restocked the clothes cupboard summer here not cold winters day. Midges and flies are a menace though. Digby repaired the solar and battery system in the troopy.

23 and 24th Travelled from Windorah onto a campsite beside the Cookawinchika billabong. Lots of bird life just outside of Bedourie. Next day drove onto Boulia stopped on the way at a scenic hill lookout. Showcases the expanse of the Diamantina channel countryside. Green as it will ever be. Had lunch at the roadhouse in Boulia where we refuelled, oh dear no more hamburger for us. We learnt our lesson with indigestion big time. Camped on the side of a billabong once again part of the Burke River. Been cleared for their annual Camel races the week before. We set up behind the race course. Beautiful spot with not many campers now. There had been well over 1000 caravans in attendance last week.

25th. Heading north west to Tobermory station on the Donovan Hwy and their campground with around 20 other vans and campers set up by the end of the day. A mostly sealed road, which was a surprise, until the NT Border, just before Tobermory.

26th. Plenty Hwy now gravel and not too bad, with us travelling at 60 – 70 kph. Found a spot on the Arthur river, dry, well off the road, on the river bank. A few birds but a kestrel nest caught my eye with the parents and an older chick helping to feed young inside the hollow. Three other campers came in late and left early.

27th. Carried on south west down the Plenty Hwy to Gemtree and a $360 refuel but they allowed us to refill the watertank on the van as well. We seem to be losing water faster than before. It was only 2 pm so we carried on, deciding to fill in a section of the Binns track that we did much of last year. So back onto rough tracks heading south and east to an old station, Hale river homestead, now running as a guest camp. They’d had a large group for the weekend, but we were able to stay by ourselves on an unpowered spot for $45 for the night. Ouch wasn’t expecting that. If known in advance we would have free camped. A rookie mistake….Filled with water before leaving in the morning. Had a quick chat to Glenda as it’s her birthday today along with Rachael.

28th. we continued along Binns track to Arltunga, an historic site area of gold mining until the 1920’s. Many ruins of the town and government buildings preserved and rebuilt. Booked to stay the night at Trephina gorge, but when we arrived, it was really cold and windy, so we only did a short walk down into the riverbed. Flies really bad. Spectacular as usual.

29th. non stop run down into Alice and a medical centre where no appointments are needed. Digby got seen almost immediately for an infected cyst on his back that had been causing grief now for a few weeks. Given antibiotics. Sharon had worse luck and we had to go back into town for blood tests before they would give her the injection she needs. That’s going to take a few days, so we’re here at least until Friday 1st August.

30th A day in Alice Springs shopping, once Sharon finished the washing again. Stocked up with groceries with Digby checking out the prices of a few minor Repairs to the van. Mainly mud flaps for the troopy. A quite expensive exercise to say the least. Stone chips are starting be a menace to the front of van. Also needed another way to secure the latch at the extension bed pull outs as the latches keep on breaking. Decided on barrel bolts. BUT discovered a broken seam in the water tank, ouch. Changed the cables to a higher current from the batteries to the inverter under the bed in the van.

Once again huge job but Digby success is sometimes guaranteed. Yes, the induction cooker plate works like a champ now off the new 3 kva inverter yeah. Can now cook in the wind inside or outside.

31st. Digby pulled out the water tank and found the weld on the top of the tank had let go and caused a 6 inch break in the top. Couldn’t fix it himself so went off to a welding firm in Alice who repaired the tank at a cost of $105. Refuelled whilst in town. Had a massive job putting the tank back in place, but managed. All good. Put the barrel bolts in place. A very cold and windy day at the park. Having to sit inside for dinner and an early night.

1st August. Drove south 180 km (120 on gravel and rough track) to Chambers Pillar and 2 nights tenting, leaving the van in storage area at Temple Bar. Very cold, but with sleeping bags and the quilt from the van we were warm enough at night. Flies during the day were horrific, making us wear headnets at all times. Cold wind had the birds in sheltered areas, but we managed two walks around the Castle Rock as well as the loop around the Pillar, and the climb to the walkway. Roaring fire both nights had us warm enough to go to bed. Glad to leave and get back to the van on Sunday 3rd and continue renovations for the car and van. Tricia told us that the two nights we were away were the coldest Alice had seen that winter so far.

By the time we left on Tuesday 5th, we had added stone guards across the back of the troopy, padded the front storage bins of the van with rubber matting, fixed the satellite dish to the troopy roof so we can stay on line when moving, repaired a broken plug for the fridge power supply and fitted sheepskin seat covers to the front seats. Must be time for a holiday.

We were finally off north on Tuesday starting with a visit to the dump point then off to the Tanami road. We weren’t sure what to expect, but the road was sealed for the first day at least. Refuelled at Tilmouth Well. Both pumps broken at Yuendumu, so no fuel there. We took a rest stop at Jerry’s windmill and an hour or so later the tyre pressure alarm went off. We pumped the rear passenger side back up and kept going to the turn off for Mount Doreen homestead ruins and a likely campsite making it 360 km for the day. We stopped on the corner and the tyre went down again almost instantly. Pumped it again and made it the few hundred metres off the road to a large flat camp area. Pulled off the wheel and almost immediately found the hole blowing bubbles on one edge. Digby inserted two plugs and it seemed to work, but he fitted the spare anyway. A cool and windy night, but not cold at least. Had to use the induction plate for cooking breakfast. No coffee!

Off again and the sealed road only lasted 30 km or so before becoming a corrugated and dusty track. Had to overtake a road train as well as a semi, both idling along at 60 kph while we were sitting on 75 to help float over the corrugations. Once past the Tanami mine, the road improved a little, with rough bits coming as a surprise. Then we hit the border and the road had the worst corrugations we had seen. We decided to call it a day and found a camp just on the NT side in an old quarry. A couple living in their Isuzu truck camped nearby, so we shared their fire for the evening and swapped yarns. Rod and Ruth in RNRTIME. Warmest night yet, with the van windows open all night for a breeze.

Rolling by 8:30, to discover it’s really only 7 WA time. The bad corrugations only lasted another hundred metres. and the road become almost smooth. It was as if neither side road crew takes responsibility for the no man’s land each side of the border, which was not clearly marked or obvious. Easy driving all the way to Bililuna and filled the main tank with 30 litres just to be sure we have enough fuel. At $3.20 a litre, we didn’t want to buy too much.

On another 14 km down the Canning stock route to Stretch Lagoon and a lakeside camp for a couple of nights. All set up by 12 for a lazy afternoon. It’s going to take a while to reset body clocks to another time zone. Wearing shorts for the first time this trip. Sharon spent some time trying to clean, with dust dust and more dust throughout the van.

8th. A very lazy relaxing day catching up on the washing chores. Beautiful to have mild weather for a change. Walked around the lagoon and Digby got some good photos. Body clocks still out of whack.

Headed on north to Halls Creek and resupply. Water was only through secured taps and we don’t have the key! Some locals in the supermarket told us to follow their bus to the rodeo ground where we would have no problem refilling the water. There was one tap which we could use, but D had to spend some time filing the threads to get the fitting to screw on. Then north up to Leycester crossing and a free camp. It filled rapidly through the afternoon, but we had a spot by ourselves on the wrong side of the access road. Dust in the van becoming a real problem. The Nikon camera is now unable to download images to the iPad with the Bluetooth and wifi not coming on. Most annoying as he can’t edit or send any shots. The hardware can be updated or reset, but it requires a computer and the ability to read and write to an sd card. Or an authorised Nikon agent.

On up to the Bungle bungles turn off and a caravan park where we decided to leave the van and just take the troopy into the park. Good idea. Very rough and corrugated for an hour and a half into the park where we had booked two nights at the Walidi campground. We spent the afternoon at the Piccaninny gorge area after setting up camp. The second day we drove up to the Echidna Chasm and walked in to the end with only a little difficulty on the boulders. We started to do the walk into the Minipalm gorge but it was just too long and hot, so we backed off halfway in.

Out on the Tuesday and back to the van, reconnected and off up to Kununurra and Ivanhoe caravan park on the edge of town. Batteries fully charged after a night on power, but something is definitely wrong with the van charge controller. Digby went off shopping and bought more electronic stuff to replace the van regulator with one which could cope with lithium batteries and another blanket charger for the car as the old one just isn’t working anymore. He left a tyre for repair but after keeping it for the night, the people decided that it was side wall damage and was not repairable legally by them. So we still have the spare tyre with the plugs in place. I hope I don’t have to patch it, although I can if we need to.

13th and on north to Parry’s Creek farm for a couple of days and nights birding before finally hitting the Gibb.

14th. Into Wyndham via King river road and the prison tree, a monster hollow Boab. Some finches caught our attention drinking from a roadside puddle, so we stopped for some pics. No Gouldies sadly, although Sharon saw several on the side away from the puddle, but many star and double banded with several species of honyeaters and a yellow white eye. Into town and the road up to 5 rivers lookout. A spectacular viewpoint of the Gulf above the port. Back down for the walk out on the jetty, refuel and a hot chook for lunch by the Big Croc, 21 metres of pretence. Back south to Molgu lagoon and hundreds of water birds. Quite stunning to see so many. Thousands of Whistle ducks, with pelicans, cormorants, darter, pied herons, egrets, magpie geese, nankeen herons, whistling kites etc. Very hot day, so back to the camp for a swim and a laid back afternoon.

15th. Packed up and off down the Hwy for 30 km or so to the Gibb River Road turnoff. A bus load of tourists were being photographed at the end of their trip, so their driver took one of us for the start of ours. The road was sealed for the first 50 km to the Pentecost crossing where we had decided to camp despite it being only 9:30. Lots of large vans evenly distributed along the riverbank, but we found a suitable spot a few hundred metres in. Salty water, but a large river, with crocs, and many birds in the tea tree. Well over 50 caravans along the river and in the carparks.

16th. Over the shallow crossing and into the corrugated and rocky road. Driving at around 65 kph but too slow to float over the corrugations and too fast to avoid rocks and bumps. Uncomfortable driving so we decided to stop early and camp at Ellenbrae station. Their scones were also highly recommended, and they even had gluten free ones. Set up in their campground and managed a swim in the nearby waterhole despite the freezing water. Campground very dusty and in heavy use but we found a secluded spot looking down into a gully with our back to the wind. That afternoon we drove a few kms out to another waterhole, Sandy gorge, but the walk was a bit too far in the afternoon heat.

17th. Headed off for the Gibb river crossing, only about 80 kms, but only managed10 km on the rocky corrugations before a blowout on the van broke the entire hub off the chassis, leaving wheel and all behind us in the dust. The first car past stopped to help, then took over with Digby supplying things as he needed them. South Africans, Woter and Diane. He jacked up the van and then found bolts of mostly the right size and bolted the hub back in place with one of the spare wheels. We returned to Ellenbrae to find that their mechanic was out fishing for his day off and would see us monday morning. Back to the campground where our site was still vacant.

18th We found Mark, the mechanic who recommended that we replace the bolts with the correct ones with nyloc nuts, which could be ordered by phone from Kunanurra for one of their staff to bring back with them later that afternoon. He also had spare tyres to replace both the repaired troopy and the blown caravan one. He then pointed out a large chunk of rubber missing from the troopy rear tyre. So we needed three new tyres as well as the bolts for the caravan hub. Back to the campground to wait for the bolts. Meanwhile, the next station to the east, El Questro, moved all their camps and vans on as there was a fierce fire heading their way and they needed to back burn. We could see the smoke haze from our camp. This being the nearest campgrounds, many vans moved in surrounding us, so we got lots of dust from moving vehicles.

Tuesday 19th. Back to the workshop first thing and our bolts were there as well as the new fitted tyres. One on the troopy still had to be changed, then I was able to park nearby and remove the under sized bolts and replace them with the new ones. A cool $2060 for the tyres etc, and we were on our way again to the Gibb river. A lovely camp by the flowing water, if a bit too shaded for the batteries. Half a dozen vans on each corner of the crossing, but still peaceful despite a tribe of young children running wild.

20th. Stayed on for a second day as it was so pleasant to do nothing. Except watch an array of beautiful birds. There were plenty including 2 black cockatoos which Digby got to photograph. Also captured 3 northern rosellas drinking on the edge of the running river.

21st Rolling by 8:30 into camp by the Hann river, but it was so dusty and crowded that we moved on a few kms to Firespring creek and a camp a few hundred meters from the road overlooking a small flowing creek. Some birdlife entertained us for the afternoon, mostly brown and yellow tinted Honeyeaters feeding on an orange grevillea. Emptied the dump tank into a useful hole.

22nd An interesting day, to say the least, which started off with Digby determined to get into Mt Barnett roadhouse to refuel the sub tank without using the main. We almost made it but he missed the changeover button when the engine coughed, so we did actually run out and stop, in the middle of a creek crossing. So he had to wade around to lift the bonnet to pump up from the main tank to drive the last kilometre. Refuelled and rewatered and dumped rubbish to be fresh and ready for the next camp. We decided not to visit Manning gorge as the camp had poor reviews and it was a 3km hike rough walk after that. Kept going to check out Galvin gorge but that was just a car park and a 1 km walk into the waterhole. Pretty spot with a waterfall and cliffs, but no camping.

The next few gorges had very rough access roads, so we had decided by then to have a long driving day and settle into Windjana gorge for a few days. Lunch at a small dam with a grebe family hunting. Most of the road wasn’t too bad, but the last 20 km into windjana was shocking. We made it but with lots of minor damage as well as another broken bolt on the stub axle, causing the wheel to lean in alarmingly, and another crack in the water tank leaking from the top. The wheel went back ok, with a new bolt and the others tightened. Once again a dusty camp very hot but has a frequent breeze coming through. And once again the van is dusty as. The red dust just seems to stick to everything and every little crack it can find. Can’t wait to get to sealed roads for a while and clean up our poor punished fox that once upon a time was white and now a rusty red.

23rd. Walked through to the end of the trail through Windjana gorge. Lots of freshies basking on the far bank but not many birds. Truly spectacular cliffs in the limestone, colourful and steep. Lazed through the afternoon heat in the shade by the van.

24th. Drove the thirty kms out to Tunnel Creek. Crowded carpark with only one bus and a dozen cars made us think the walk would be crowded. Not so, but we have no idea where the people were. Sharon actually made it through the boulder field into the cave where we had to wade through several pools and along sandy beaches for one km in pitch dark. Digby had the dolphin torch from the car flickering, but giving just enough light to keep on. One pool over waist deep on Digby, and very cold. We made it through to the end and sat on our own in the cool for a sandwich and a cup of tea from the thermos. Back though the cave and another soaking to sit in the shaded picnic area and change into dry clothes, then finish off the sandwiches before heading back to Windjana and the camp for the afternoon.
Back to the gorge for sunset, but all the crocs had moved elsewhere. A pair of courting Pheasant coucal entertained Digby trying to photograph them.

24th. Packed and headed off for Derby, making it out to the main road with no further damage. Pulled over on the junction and tightened up the hub bolts, but no further issues there. Carried on down the bitumen, relishing the quiet, only to have a blowout without warning on the troopie. The third destroyed rear drivers side tyre, this one having only done the 300 kms from Ellenbrae after paying $675 for it! Into Derby and the caravan park to wash and resettle. Another new tyre for the back for $490, and a $350 grocery shop in woolies. Van park seems quiet and not too crowded.

25th. Collected at 8:45 and driven out to the airport. Briefing etc then off on the seaplane out to the Horizontal Falls. Morning tea, boat trip up Cyclone creek, visit the falls and roar through up and down a few times. Back to the pontoon for lunch, barramundi etc, really good food. Another run out to the falls closer to high tide and the flow easing off. Back to the pontoon and the seaplane to do a few laps of the falls from above, then south closer to the coast back to come in over Derby. Amazing day, worth every cent.

26th. South to Broome and the bird observatory for two nights. Barely fitted in the site, but didn’t unhitch either. Good viewing platform on the coast of Roebuck Bay. Very hot and hard to walk around much in the heat of the day.

27th. Into Broome, leaving the van at a free camp about 10 km out, where we were able to park on a concrete block platform, a good surface to work on the bent axle. Booked a tour for Saturday morning with Willie’s pearl farm, giving us a talk and video of the history of the industry and showing much of the equipment. Tasted pearl oyster meat, watched the opening of a seeded oyster, finding the pearl. A good lustre baroque, worth around $45. Had a $100,000 pearl passed around the group. Lunch in the old pub, Roebuck Bay hotel. Replaced the bent axle and both brakes on the van as well as a missing grease nipple. Spent Sunday checking out Main beach and Cable beach. Very busy with lots of people everywhere.

1 Sept. Set off south making 460 km to camp at Cape Keraurdren. Very exposed headland with no trees at all.

2 Sept. Camped on a balcony overlooking a large and shallow bay almost dry at low tide. Many shorebirds. Walked up the inlet to a creek barrier. Limestone cliffs made access to the water difficult. Sharp rocks. The colour of the ocean waters are incredibly vibrant hues of blues and greens.

3 Sept. Walked around the headland past a few brave campers exposed to the wind. Dolphins off the point. Bird boxes and perches set up along the main camp area. As we watched, Zebra finches arrived to feed in the grass below them, using the perches as look out points.

4 Sept. Packed up and dumped at one of the many dump points and headed south to Port Hedland, stopping to re water at Paroo. Port Hedland is a bit of an industrial wasteland, dominated by the cranes and rail systems for the port, the largest in Australia. The van park where Glenda and Michael live is on the north shore on a headland so we will be able to watch the rising full moon on Monday, with its staircase. Digby started work on the van water tank leak, handbrakes on both troopy and van.

5th. Washing washing and more washing. Michael made up new handbrake cables for the van, which work although there is no adjustment possible yet. The leak from the water tank proved to be from the sender unit, so that’s been sealed off until a replacement can be found. Available on line. Adjusted the troopy handbrake inside with packing pieces. Evening drinking session is with Glenda and Michael neighbour catching up on tales of each misadventures and woes of all. Telling us of all the beautiful places still to visit.

6th Into Michael and Glenda’s car to go to the Seafarers mission for a tour of the docks. Tour guide Damien worked with Glenda at TAFE. Many of the ships coming into the port to load up with iron ore are staffed by Asians, underpaid and isolated, rarely off the ship. The mission people try to take care of them, taking them shopping or doing it for them, providing internet and phone, whatever is needed. Very Christian overtones but doing what is needed.

7th. Father’s Day, so into the Dome coffee shop for morning tea. Turtle lookout on the way back with young turtles pottering around. Full moon views over the inlet, but no ladder showed itself.

8th. More dust proofing and replaced bent brackets holding forward locker shelf. Booked a couple of nights at Karajini np. After lunch drove into south Hedland collecting some replacement grease nipples, sealing rubber strips and mailing presents home to Tony. Drove out and around Finucain Island where the iron ore is stockpiled before being loaded onto the ships. Out to the boat ramp and climbed a few dunes for the view of a small inlet as well as the 25 bulk carriers parked offshore waiting their turn. Back to Cole’s and shopped for Karajini and beyond. The stairway to the moon showed herself this evening and we managed some good pics before Michael and Glenda produced a fine dinner of corned beef and veges.

9th. Back out to Coles to buy some more food, refuel at a cheapish servo. Refilled with water, emptied dump tank, etc.

10th. Out to Dales Campground in Karajini, just next to Dales gorge and Fortesque falls. Walked out and down the 282 steps into the gorge then along a rough track to the Fern Pool where 20 or so people were swimming or showing off their buttocks, etc. we admired the pool but didn’t swim, the water was just too cold for us. Spotted a Rothschilds rock wallaby on the way back, a rare local endemic, then a western Bower bird also appeared. Another local endemic. Back up those steps, with considerably more effort than going down!

11th. Into the visitor centre, then out to Joffre gorge and its nearby partner, Knox gorge and the lookout there without going down into either. Another 30 km or so out to Weano gorge and the lookouts over the red gorge and junctions of three more.

Digby went down into Weano to try and rephotograph the image he took deep in the gorge in 1976? Found the right spot and also the pool he swam across. Now fitted with a handrail to make it a little safer. Not permitted now to go out to the end and look down into red gorge.

12th. We had booked two nights in Jane’s Bay for Saturday and Sunday, so we had to find a campsite near half way. There are several roadside stops after going through Tom Price, and stopping for water, but a rough gravel road stopped us for taking the short cut. It looked like 220 km of rocky corrugations so we turned around, went back to Tom Price for lunch and on to Parburdoo, the longer way around but all sealed. Stopped around 3 at the Beasley river (dry) overnight rest stop. Crowded even when we arrived and more rolled in after us. Even blocking us in, so it might be a slow start tomorrow.

13th. Started the day by adding washers between the hub and the spring base to bring the passenger side wheel back to vertical. It has been leaning in quite noticeably. That let everyone else leave so the place was empty by the time we rolled out at 9:30! Refuelled in Nanutarra, then another 100 km south to the turnoff for Jane’s Beach at Ningaloo. The free rest area was very unappealing, so decided to go for it and brave the sand out to the west coast. Let all the tyres down to 30psi at the turnoff from the bitumen and headed in. The 30 km of road was more corrugated than sandy, and certainly didn’t need low range as national parks info advised. No drama to get into the campsite which had plenty of space and was sheltered by a dune between us and the sea. A walk of a couple of hundred metres to the beach. Another water pipe burst while we were out and the whole clay/mud pan below the van was flooded with water. The repair was relatively easy but the pump so far has failed to come on again after it did for a couple of tests to find the leak. No idea how much water is left in the tank. Spent the evening trying to decide whether or not to go on north to Exmouth as national parks sites are all booked out and van parks are expensive. We will call them tomorrow to check availability. Stripped and cleaned the water pump, finding that the pressure switch had jammed off. Reset and it all worked again. Decided to stay an extra day. Wind set in very strongly, getting us up at midnight to pull in the awning despite have the anti flap struts on. Van rocking and rolling all night gave us a sleepless night. Drove a way north up to the next campground to find it even more exposed, so didn’t bother going any further up as they all look the same. Back to camp and a wander around the small clusters of pine trees.

The caretaker came over with a load of water, replacing that lost when the pipe burst. A nearby well that he keeps secret in the hope that it will keep his own camp going for good water. We were able to book a campsite in a caravan park at Exmouth, as all the national park sites were much further away, and on the exposed west coast again. We thought the town might be a little more sheltered. We had time in the afternoon to go north to Vlamingh point and the lighthouse, watching the surfers offshore, and then on a track up to the north cape and the site of the Mildura wreck. A pod of 4 humpbacks were just visible to our east, spouting strongly and surfacing occasionally. We drove to the eastern shore to see if there was a better view, but they were then too far to the west to be seen at all.

17th. We started south again, dropping into Coral Bay for morning tea and some calamari with chips. Overcrowded but a good place for children playing in the shallows. Weren’t interested in staying there as the feeling was all overdevelopment and too many people.

On down to Minalya and a free camp by a dry river. A roadhouse opposite and 20 other campers on our side of the river.

18th. A long days drive, 460km, down to a caravan park in Denham on Shark Bay as all national park sites were booked out and the roadside stops uninteresting. Still very windy, so cooking inside and no awning out.

19th. We drove out to the heritage area in Peron np. An old sheep station with mostly intact buildings and an artesian spa running full time at 40 C. A hot dip for 5 minutes, then a cold shower to rinse. The outflow from the spa pool went into a wetland which had a screen for birdos to watch the open pools. Only zebra finches while we were there. Back to the main road and on another 20 km to Monkey Mia and the resort. Dozens of people were lining the water edge watching the three dolphins that were cruising along about two metres out. Usually with a pelican escort and a few cormorants hanging out. The resort hotel seemed ok so we ordered a fish and chip lunch and a beer. Total cost $90!

Back to Denham and on another 20 km to the Eagle Bluff boardwalk with good views down to shallow water with sharks cruising around. Rays and others can also be seen from the heights. Too cold and windy to stay out long, so back to the park and the relative warmth of the van for the late afternoon. Cooked dinner inside again.

20th On the move again to Kalbarri Anchorage Caravan Park. Once again all the sites are either fully occupied or exposed onto the open very windy coastline. Set up, well half set up, as we couldn’t pull out awning etc as it was so windy again. Perched up inside once again. Quite cosy when you get used to tight areas. Decided on a 20 minute walk into town. 10minutes down the beach it was turn around and head back to the van. So windy it nearly blew me over…

21st Sunday.. Scenic drive to Nature’s Window. Took a while as we kept stopping for S to take in and photograph the wildflowers. They were in abundance covering the floor of the sand dunes and Scrub lands. Sensational sights of yellow white and pinks/lilac star daisies. The yellow wattles and acacias trees were in full bloom. Avenues of yellow on each side of the road, incredible. Eventually arrived at the National Park, firstly the Skywalk overlooking the Kalbarri gorge where you could see for miles of the Murchison River many metres below. Magnificent views. Coffee time as it was too windy to brew at the van. Then onto a 600 m walk on rocky outcrops but well laid out paths for easier walking to the famous window in the rock. Photograph were taken of course.

Travelled onto the Z Bend, 1.6k walk down to its viewing platform following the river. The wildflowers were in full bloom pinks were predominantly the main colours. Very few birds for Digby to photograph. Down to Coalseam national park, where we were booked into the breakaway camp ground to find it was a very exposed and windy area. The Miners campground down below looked much better and had vacancies. So we re-booked and stayed down by the river. Park ranger approved the refund.

22nd. Driving most of the day up to Mullewa and the visitor centre, then on to Pindar to see the wreath plants. Just growing in the gravel on the graded edge of the road. down on minor roads back to Coalseam, the wild flowers in profusion, especially around Canna.

23rd. Pottered around the camp area and checked out an old mine site.

Wednesday morning drove on south through Jurien Bay, stopping on weed covered beaches for morning tea. Camped in the Tuart Reserve. Bees everywhere from two wild hives at waist height in trees by the graded edge of the camp area. Several groups arrived then left scared by the bees. We left a bowl of water out with a few sticks and had no worries in our camp. Did a drive through the Pinnacles National Park checking out the spectacular limestone columns.

Down back roads after Cervantes, cutting east across the main highways, so many flowers and some Baudins Black cockies, finally rolling into New Norcia. Walked around the river trail in the evening down to an apiary around a weir covered in algae from the saline water.

25th. Booked a tour for a walk around several of the buildings. Print shop, church, chapel, education centre for aboriginal studies, music hall with amazing acoustics. The guide sang a verse of amazing grace.

26th. Saturday morning drive back roads to Kalamunda and cafe lunch before driving back down the hill to Coogee to find Craig and Taryn’s front driveway to camp. Afternoon walk along Coogee beach front . Craigs regen project rebuilding front dune.

27th. Telegraph hill walk with kangaroo paw etc, then woodmans point walk looking for orchids. Various spider, donkey, Yellow caladenia, rattle beaks. As well as many other flowers.

28th. Monday morning drive into Perth and a walk around Kings Park for his birthday. Monday holiday so absolutely packed. 21 gun salute. Flower people in attendance. Wildflowers were in full bloom and en masse. Eucalyptus macrocarpa a big hit.

29th. On the road again on Tuesday, heading east out to the Dryandra forest for Tuesday and Wednesday nights. Various walks, but most of the tracks were 10 km or so from the camp. No availability on the tours, but they were on fenced land privately owned with semi captive animals not native to the area. Back to the coast on Thursday to spend Thursday and Friday night in tall forest near Augusta. Such a change after all the dry country. Jarrahdene campground is sited on an old mill, with a few remains scattered around. Drove down to Augusta for the day. On the river but a very windy day. Drove out to the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse and a couple of orchid sites hunting for whatever was open. Many many orchids were found. Did a drive through Margaret river. Very yuppie, but again, crowded and overdeveloped.

Orchids included Rattlebeak, Mantis, Bee, Donkey, Pansy, Spider, Broad tongue Spider, purple enamel, yellow cowslip, mignonette, and a King in his carriage!, with a few other pretties thrown in. Purple flags, trigger plants, sundew, bladderwort and other carnivores, with many different pea plants including the red kennedia. The weeds were especially pretty, with white bells, gladioli, arum lilies, hmm.

We started Saturday with a tour of the Jewel Cave. Dropping 300 steps down through clean crystal limestone. Many beautiful formations.

Moving east now, to spend Saturday night at the Shannon n.p. campground, again on the site of an abandoned timber village. All the houses were sold off and transported out. A splendid wren showed up along with a scarlet robin making a mess of my rear vision mirrors. Driving through tall forest as if in Victoria. Down to the Valley of the Giants and the tree top walkway on Sunday morning, just managing to arrive in time for a long vehicle space. The high walkway moves significantly, a bit like crossing a suspension bridge with the swaying, but gives a good view of the forest floor, as well as the canopy.

We had been having trouble with the van water pump, with the pressure switch jamming. We decided to replace the pump and found one in store in Albany BCF. A campsite was available at a Denmark van park, so we settled in there caught up with the washing again. before driving down the 60 km to Albany to pick up the new pump. Had breakfast with the kangaroos…… and mother duck with her babies….

On again from Denmark on Monday morning to an Orchid reserve north of Mt Barker, finding several different spider orchids, purple enamel, cowslips. The white spider orchids there in profusion, covering the ground. A few more kms north through Cranbrook to its cemetery and a wildflower drive opposite. More brightly coloured peas and a vivid red leschenaultia, almost looking like the wreath plants, as it is in the same genus. Bee orchid and more spiders.

On into the Stirling Ranges and the Mt Trio campground for a couple of nights. A wildflower tour on Tuesday morning. Wandered round with the owner, John, an NZ shearer who came for work and bought the property cheaply to run sheep, then discovered orchids when he fenced a woodland area. Self taught since then. A dozen people on the walk, with various orchids and other flowers. Dragon, Mantis, Jug, pink fairy, cowslip, purple enamel,

The weather turned wet and cold with a strong wind from the south, so we headed inland rather than face the coast.

Wave rock has been on the bucket list and one of them was due north, so up to Hyden on Tuesday. The first park we went into claimed to be fully booked apart from a few campground spaces. We left a message on their phone but got no reply. On to the more formal van park at the rock itself. They found us a small space, which with some difficulty we managed to fit into for two nights. Thursday 9th saw us do far more walking than we’ve done so far with a loop of wave rock and out to the Hippos Yawn rock. Drove out to the Humps and Mulkas cave for the afternoon. And another couple of loops around the gnamma waterholes and the hump itself. The cave was a bit poorer than expected given the hype. But there were hand stencils visible, although not the 450 claimed. Back to camp to find the area overrun by small loud children from a tent next to us as well as another across the road. Back down to the coast at Esperence on Friday10th, and three nights in a good van park on the esplanade so we could go out for dinner on Sharon’s 70th birthday. We were given a large site in the back corner of the park

Away from the children. Well we thought that…..

TODAY IS SHARONS 70th BIRTHDAY.

Presents included several sets of beautiful bird and flower earrings also an elephant charm and scarf from Glenda. We spent the day driving around the eastern end of the beaches on Cape Le Grande. Beautiful pristine white sand with the most gorgeous blue aquas and turquoise green ocean. Back to the van and then onto the most exquisite French restaurant in amongst a museum village in the heart of Esperance. Made my day. Bottle of local wine and French three course meal. Bistro Louis.

12th. We caught up on the mundane activities washing grocery shopping then off to explore the “western great ocean drive” 🐟 beautiful beaches. A once was pink lake, it is just not pink anymore lol. Then off to investigate where Heidi once lived on her boat. Found her, the boat, tied up at the end of the jetty.

13th. Left Esperence and travelled north to Norseman to begin the journey across the Nullarbor. First night camp was at Newman Rock. So good to be back free camping in the .bush. Camp fire in the brazier. Heated up again. Heaters not required, busy place full of caravans and overnighters.

14th. Travelled onto the 90mile stretch to Cocklebiddy to refuel. Stopped at Caiguna blowhole for morning tea and reminisced about going down into it a long time ago. Still has the cool breeze blowing up. Saw camels in the wild by the roadside. Yeahhhhh. Of course Sharon had to buy another stuffed camel for her bed collection. Camp at an old MRD site about 1 km off the road, 20 km west of Madura.

Through to Eucla and down to the old telegraph station and a possible campsite. Nothing appealed although the dunes gave a little shelter from the northerly wind, so on to the start of the cliffs about 20 km past Eucla. Followed a rough track out to the cliff edge and a campsite with absolutely no shelter but a prime view of the sea and the steep drop to the sand. No whales and too windy for birds. A storm had been brewing and lightning had us rushing to clear away the camp before the rain arrived. The wind stayed strong all night, giving us a poor nights sleep, and turning to the south, so we emerged to a cold morning still unable to use the kitchen.

16th had us visiting each of the lookouts over the Great Australian Bight, with the first one looking back at our camp. Spectacular cliffs but still no whales or birds. Planned to camp at a private campsite near Fowlers bay, but it proved to be too rough and exposed, so we moved on looking for some forest for shelter. Many tracks leading off into the scrub on the way back to the highway prompted us to investigate and we found a sheltered spot a few hundred metres from the road.

17th. Very windy along the coast so didn’t bother stopping on the way to Elliston and the Nationdale campground for two nights . The flies were awful despite the wind, so we hid in the van to recover from the Nullabor drive. Lost some veges at the quarantine stop just out of Ceduna. Froze most and were allowed to keep them. Should have cooked the rest.

18th. Nationdale campground.

19th. Tried to camp at the Bluff near Kimba but the flies were too annoying again, so we pressed on to camp on the Spencer Gulf coast near Lowly Point.

20th with Rita and Bill on Weeroona island.

21st. Drove through Barossa and found ourselves close to the Grant Burge winery, so we went in for a celebratory wine and chocolate tasting for our second anniversary. Then on down to the Palmer cricket ground to camp in an olive grove with some shelter from the wind. Forecasts of 140kph on the coast, so we won’t be going through the Coorong.

22nd. Stayed on at Palmer.

23rd. Drove from Pinnaroo south through the Big desert intending to camp at Broken Bridge, but too muddy and a high likelihood of more rain. Kept going south to Bills Gully hall, an old hall and game reserve with a mostly dry lake.

24th. Passed through Mt Arapiles on the way to camp at Taylor lake.

25th Taylor lake. Lunch with Barb and John. Heavy rain overnight. Campsite 3inches deep in water.

26th Heidi and Tony. Built and painted Cubby house we’d sent them, then stayed on had a week with them ending with Cody’s 1st birthday party on 1st November. Visit to Peter and Pamela at Ballarat for a lovely lunch and catch-up.

2nd November. Left Tony’s today and drove for 5 hours to arrive home in Corryong, to a overgrown yard of grass. Weeds 2 foot high in the garden. Oh well plenty of time now to fix up the yard and house.

Fantastic holiday ………epic journey. 17 weeks and 3 days…….18,200 kms, $7300 fuel