This is the full story of our first trip as Gray Nomads with Snowbird and the Fox on the road for 6 months, mainly to avoid winter in Corryong. Featuring the Eyre Peninsula, Flinders Ranges, Lake Eyre, Simpson Desert, East and West MacDonalds, Kings Canyon, Whistleduck Creek, Butterfly Gorge, Katherine Gorge, the Gulf Country, Cobbold Gorge, Port Douglas and Meander before Dinosaur country and home. Saving WA for next year.

With new springs in the back, the troopy now sits 5 cm higher and with the roof basket fitted, there was no way I could drive in through the carport to back the caravan out. The solution seemed to be to winch the van backwards, then swing it so the troopy could be hooked up once it was past the chimney.  Winching it out was easy but the van finished up too close to the fence to be able to swing it enough to hook up. Trying to move away from the fence the van tended to run off by itself. We were finally able to drive the troopy inside between the chimney and the van, but the gate had to come off to do so. So, two hours to get the van out on the road, but we finally got away by 1:30. Maybe unload the roof next time!

Three hours to Police Paddock campground just out of Corowa, with caravans passing us constantly heading in for the Man from Snowy River weekend.  A good time for us to get out of town. About a dozen caravans were set up along the river, some back a way and some on the bank. Recent floods meant that the permanents had moved up a bit, and that they are in the sun.  Our batteries are running low, so we’ll need a car charging system on top of the solar.

A slow morning before finally rousing for breakfast. A wander up to the end of the camping area and simply sitting birding and trying out the new camera.  Set up the windbreak screen at the rear end and it works well.  Really worth the effort.  

Collected some firewood and were given more from the next door camp, who’d been over to the island to cut some. Semi locals now from Wodonga.  Had the brazier going for the evening so cooked up some ex frozen fish and chips. Yummy.

Another slow getaway, finally pulling out by 12! Trusted google to take us on byways through and around Shepparton for lunch in a roadside rest area, just before the freeway started. 

Rolled in to Tony and Heidi just on 4 and all set up in an hour or so. Tony cooked, but we were still in bed by 9.

Headed down to Campbellfield without the van to try and buy a new remote for the air con, but no go. The manufacturer seems to have shut down and doesn’t pick up their phone or reply to emails. Visited several other rv stores but they only seem to stock basics. Bought a new battery for the back of the car as it seems to die under load, but the new battery does the same thing. It may be an anomaly in the volt meter at the fridge as the battery voltages are correct. 

Saturday in Seymour buying more stuff, then home to another burst water line, flooding the entire area under our bed. Easy replacement but now I have limited supplies of spare pipe!  Went out for dinner to the local winery restaurant, Mitchelton, with 11 people. Total bill of $780 including drinks. A good meal, though I won’t be doing that too often. We shouted Tony and Heidi for their birthdays and engagement. 

Sunday the big day for Tommy and the whole family arrived for his baptism.  I stayed home and did some minor repairs as well as trying to get the Hws to come on. It had been working well but shut down overnight and declined to come on this morning. Too many coincidences with the burst pipe and a mouse inside nearby as well. Eventually got the heater running after blowing 60 psi through the gas line. Then discovered that the heater can be run off the inverter anyway.  Too much food of every variety at the luncheon. 

We packed up and headed off for Horsham on Monday, winching the van around so as not to move the three cars blocking us in. Workers removing and replacing the worn out decking around 3/4 of Tony’s rental. 

Headed out west on back roads through to Heathcote, then realised that we were going to pass close to Bendigo so I booked in with Keith and Jenny for a cuppa en route. That came with a light lunch of course, so we were well fed.

On then to Kennedy lakes campground, again not many campers there, so wide empty spaces around us. Lunch with Barb and John on Tuesday completed our commitments to others, so then we were free to drift on the whim. 

Visited another rv store with no luck on the hws or remote for the aircon. We went to refuel after lunch and Sharon noticed another RV repairer next door to the servo, so we had yet another go. Scotty is a gem. His advice gave me the confidence to extract the pcb, and discover it to be wet and so short circuiting the igniter. Dried it off and we had gas heated water again. So the flooded carpet was steaming and condensing onto the circuit board. It was still damp under there, so it stopped again the next day, but it is a simple enough job to extract and dry it off.

On Wednesday we packed up and headed north through Murtoa, stopping in to admire the Stick Shed, then on to Rupanyup and the silo trail up through to Patchewollock. We decided that to go on to the Murray camp was now too far for the day, so headed in to the Casuarina campground in Wyperfeld. Free and totally empty, which is probably why no bookings were required.

I managed a 9 km walk around a loop trail, with the highlight being an old well, now filled in and very unexciting but warm day with a cold wind building up during the day.

On the road again with a 9am start, shockingly early for us. Up to Redcliffs for a laundromat, a serendipitous water fill from an abandoned bowling green, and a grocery top up. Into Psyche point camp by the Murray by 1 for lunch. Hot water not starting again so I automatically stripped and dried the pcb before Sharon kindly pointed out that I had not removed the outside cover. Idiot. It came on as soon as it could breathe again!

We are either starting to get used to the cool weather, or it’s warming up a little at night. I collected some wood but felt no need to light the brazier with the windward wall in place.  

We went for a walk along the riverbank to the psyche pump station. Now a heritage listed steam engine pump house, brought into operation about 4 times a year. Replaced by electric pumps.  Extensive salination all around the area, with dead trees everywhere and salt marsh lands. The irrigation and fruit industry came at a cost which doesn’t seem to be recognised at all.  I guess too many people have profited and passed the full cost on to future generations.

Very peaceful sitting by the riverbank watching the passing traffic. Several huge houseboats drifting slowly past, a couple even moored for the night 100 m upriver. Some were rentals and some seemed to operated by resorts. Lots of men  and their dogs in tinnies either trolling slowly or zooming past as fast as they can go.  No speed limits here.

On our second day, a foul stench drifted across the camp area, no idea where that was from, but rotting vegetation seemed likely. Or a sewage farm with a wind change.  That was the spur for us to move on, so we watered and dumped near Wentworth, before heading north to Menindee through Pooncarie.  This turned out to be the day of the desert dash, with dune buggies racing on a private track. A hundred or so cars as spectators. Clouds of dust rolling over everyone as the racers shot through. 

We found a free camp by Lake Pamamaroo, along with several vans in a small clearing along the riverbank, but we were by ourselves for three nights, with a small fire in the brazier to cook on. I finally managed to get the new camera to connect and download to the iPad on Bluetooth. Everything has to be fully charged and then it’s a bit slow.  White plumed honeyeaters duelling with the noisy miners for possession of the gum trees and their mistletoe. Dozens of pelicans promenading along the shore, often with attendant black cormorants.

We did a run out to a Menindee suburb, Sunset Strip, which sounded interesting but proved to be a slum settlement of holiday shacks on the lake shore. A golf course and associated bar had nothing of interest, so we returned to Menindee town for some supplies before going back to camp.

We had a shady campsite but that meant the battery ran flat with no solar input, so we had to run the generator and shut down as much as we could. Another lesson to park in full sun if we want to run the fridge etc. We were packed and rolling by 9:30 on Wednesday, 24th and into Menindee to run through Kinchega and the other lakes across to the silver city Hwy. then south and west into SA and Chowilla game reserve with many camps along a creek. Good internet, so we were able to drive into campsite 20 and book it online for a stay.  About 40 km from Renmark.

Poor country all round us with very little wildlife. A few Roos departed but only a few birds fishing the stream.  Full sun on the van, so the batteries seemed to recover ok.  Very dusty inside by the door and inside under the sink. Covered the door vents with duct tape as they are there for internal gas cooking, which we don’t have. Sharon found more vents under the sink, which open into the aircon. I’ll investigate that further as we have lots of dirt road to go. We managed a 6 km walk up and down the river to the surrounding sites, empty apart from #19 which had a couple of cars and tents. Cloudy and cool with intense sun when it breaks through the cloud. 

Set off for resupply in Renmark, queueing for the dump point and clean water supply, taking 45 minutes. Then over to woollies for groceries, Cheap fuel in Berri, replacing two gas bottles as well as filling up the second tank. Using over 17 l per 100 km. Good to be back at speed on a highway to Burra gorge. A rally race was in full swing as we approached the turn off, while small and elderly rally cars sent up dust everywhere.

Very crowded as it’s sort of a long weekend after Anzac Day on Thursday. We found a site by the road in full sun looking down on the creek and forest with no other camps nearby. Good birding so we’ll stay despite the crowds, which will be everywhere anyway. Very cold in the early morning, probably around 2C.

 Monday morning and into Burra for Sharon to do the laundry while I drove out to the campground for dump point and water. $5 donation for water. On to Port Wakefield and refuel before dropping south again into the Yorke Peninsula. Wheat and money with pretty stone cottages in every town.  Found a free camp in Ardrossan for Sunday night and had to break in through the back door, again. This time I did more damage getting the door open and trying to get the lock working.  Eventually removed everything as lots of the locks die cast pieces were weak and breaking.  

We now had no security, with a piece of string holding the door closed. Packed after the one night and headed for a likely rv repair shop in Kadina, who despite being helpful did not have the parts available and said that they would be at least three weeks away. We went to the nearby Mitre 10 and bought a normal security door lock along with some other bits and pieces.  On to Wallaroo by lunch and an unacceptable overnight stopping bay, so went on down highway then rough tracks for 20 km out to Point Elizabeth and a beachfront camp . Wind blown and dusty but glorious spot when the wind stops. Fitted the new door lock with lots of cursing but it works with the double door screwed together and two pull down clamps.

One other camp set up a hundred m or so from us, with two young men arriving after we’d gone to bed. 

Walked up and down the beach on Tuesday with very few birds around. Herons and oystercatchers being highlights. Didn’t even try to use the big camera as it is so dusty.  Sharon wiping surfaces to try and keep a degree of cleanliness at least. 

We decided we’d had enough by Wednesday. If it had been calm and not dusty I think  we could have stayed on but it was just not  pleasant.  Chops on the grill on Tuesday night despite the wind. Seemed to be under control ok.

We headed back out on the rough tracks through salt marsh.  Grateful it wasn’t raining. On south bound through Maitland for water and a dump point where a longterm van lifer suggested we visit Barker rocks.  We checked them out as well as another council run camping area but we finished up at the Len Barker reserve near Turton point anyway. Booked a week as it’s $20 a day or $100 a 7 day week. Can stay at any of the council campgrounds if there is space.  Still very windy and exposed so unsure if we’ll stay or look for somewhere more sheltered tomorrow.

Strong wind gusting all night, so still very uncomfortable in the morning. We decided to move on and made a booking for two nights at Gym Campsite in the National park. It was only an hours drive to the south.  Later we realised that this would take out two of our council park nights. Oops.  

The new camp is facing east at least, so we were able to position the van for maximum windbreak effect before fitting the side wall. Made a sheltered nook so it seems ok for now. The camp was the only one available of 6 along the crest of a ridge overlooking the beach. Good views but only if we left the nook to stand on the drop off edge. Beaches and rock platforms to explore but not much bird life. Wind is expected to drop tomorrow, Friday 3rd. Here’s hoping. 

Friday proved to have a mild breeze, and warm, so a vast improvement over the last few days. There is an 11km walking track south to Brown Beach, so I headed off around 10:30. Interesting vegetation types along the way, with mallee scrub alternating with cypress and heathland. One flame Robin and a face to face with an emu, but otherwise another boring and viewless walk. 6 km to the car park at the end of the track, then another km up the road to the beach itself. Very pretty, so I thought I should complete the loop by walking the beach back to camp. A 3 km beach to start, then three rocky headlands with smaller beaches between them.  All ok except the tide was rising and every wave threatened my feet and the sand was very soft and exhausting to walk.  Still managed ok and got back by 1:30 for lunch. Somewhat dehydrated.  

Another 4 campers rolled in through the afternoon. Sharon and I did another small walk around the headland and back across the bay, discovering a mob of around 40 emu decimating a local farmers field of the freshly planted wheat.

Sunset at 5:30 with the sky glowing in reds and yellows, and the chill rolling in with no cloud or wind. We head across to Marion Bay tomorrow to do a little shopping etc then try to camp at Foul Bay. Saturday morning had us excited by our first seal frolicking by the rocks below our camp.

Marion Bay had a fresh water supply from a desalination plant, so we were able to fill with 100 litres for $1. Some veges and fish and chips, then out to Foul Bay and the camp by the boat ramp.  Some wind made it difficult to boil water for tea, but that faded during the afternoon leaving the evening still and cold.  The beaches here looked like they were sandy, but once you got down to walk along them they’re actually covered in white sea grass. The sand starts a little under water. 

The campsite remained exposed but with a view of the sea. The other Foul Bay site was 100m inland, more sheltered but only the bushes to look at. We went for the view but the wind became a bit much.  We spent Sunday driving off into the National Park along the south coast with spectacular cliffs of sandstone and limestone as well as Kangaroo Island. The high light was the 360 degree view from West Cape over the north and south coast. Lunch there out of the back of the car.  Sad remains of the Ethel wrecked after losing her rudder. Now just rusted frame pieces poking up out of the sand. Lots of shipwrecks around here, oddly after the lighthouses went up.

Back to Foul bay and huddled in the shelter while we cooked vege fritters for dinner on the small cooker. Too windy for the big one. Then woken frequently during the night by the van creaking and groaning in the wind.  Off this morning to see what we can find to the north.  Arranged with Rita to drop in on them at Weeroona Island on Wednesday.  

Northward again to Parara beach near Ardrossan again for Monday and Tuesday nights. Managed to locate the van across the wind, so not too bad with one wall up.  We even managed grilled chops on the brazier for the second night. New Holland Honeyeaters buzzing around the camp along with the Singing Honeyeater trying to drive them away.

Cheap fuel at Ardrossan then set off for Rita’s through Yorktown for water, as well as more food and booze.  Lunch at Port Broughton and pulled into their front yard around 2 for afternoon tea.  Camp with a view on their patio although the wind had the van rocking several times during the night.  Lamb chops on the barbie for dinner along with fruit salad and ice cream as a treat.  Mondradilla vine looked good.

Didn’t want to impose too much so headed off on Thursday’s morning for Port Augusta and a laundromat as well as the usual water and dump point. Not sure about the water as it was from a fire hose, but it should be ok. We’re now using the filter or boxed water for tea and coffee.

Started south down the east coast as far as Lowly Point and Port Bonython and a camp as close to the beach as we’ve ever been. About 10m of rocky shore, doubling at low tide, somewhat sheltered by a hillside and very pleasant sitting in the shade with a light breeze.  Sausages on the brazier for dinner.  We decided to stay a second night as it is very peaceful watching the water, although the birding is very scarce. The wrens were quite inquisitive but the male never appeared. 

I got up for a pee at 6 on Saturday morning to find the southern sky aglow in deep red light as if for a serious bushfire somewhere out to sea.  They turned out to be the southern aurora flaring up after a major solar event. My first sighting, but didn’t manage a photo.

Saturday 11th packed up and drove the couple of kms south to the Point Lowly lighthouse. Stone cottages there being renovated although no keeper needed there now. Port Bonython nearby is a refinery for the gas slurry coming down from Moomba, separating it into its components for shipping out. Water and a dump point courtesy of Santos, with rubbish bins everywhere.

On down south on the highway to Cowell to find everything closed at 12. Everybody at the footy in front of a painted silo with a camel, a farmer and an eagle (I think).  Fish and chips and a drink at the pub along with half a dozen fat and juicy oysters.  Yum.

Carried on west out through Cleeve, a very rural wheat town, then south to a mallee conservation area, Wharminda soak, and a camp in a clearing surrounded by mallee scrub. No sky lighting on Sunday morning but we were immersed in a deep mist until the sun broke through.  All the gums on the south side were flowering, so wattlebirds were out in force. No sign of water on any of the soaks or in the creek nearby.

We went for a walk up along a closed road to the crest of a ridge to find paddocks of stubble, probably canola. Great views back east across miles of farm land.

We packed and headed south on Monday morning to resupply in Port Lincoln, with lots of running around to find the right shops.  The shower is leaking due to silastic pulling away, so new silastic required. My iPad cracked and is obviously failing, with power outages etc. so Harvey Norman for a new one. KMart for a new fitted sheet as one of ours is a queen and doesn’t fit at all.  The sat phone satellite has apparently been shot down. So now it doesn’t work and also not on any other system, so some replacement needed there as well, just nothing available in PL. it’s looking like starlink will be the way to go. Especially if I can cancel the existing broadband service and the iPad mobile service.  The new one doesn’t even have a SIM card.

Then on south to Mikkirra, a koala wildlife sanctuary on an old sheep farm.  We booked and paid through Hipcamp and the owner, Helen, texted us with the code for the gate key, as well as the code for the Whalers way gate, a closed road nearby apparently owned by her uncle. We spent Tuesday walking several trails around the site, spotting many koalas asleep in stunted manna gums. Sharon managed over 6km so is very happy with that. Much of the property was burned in a severe bushfire 10 years ago and is in recovery. A limestone layer is also on the surface, preventing water penetration but water is accessible below that layer. Not much growing after many years of low rainfall, especially the last few months.  5 koalas were introduced there in 1970, there are now over 50, and we saw about 20 of them sound asleep.

Helen came by to check on us and suggested not taking the van down whalers way as the camp areas were not that well kept. We decided to stay at her place for the third night and just do the way as a day trip.  That worked well as the roads were a bit rough in places and there were no campsites with shelter. A good day driving around the coast, visiting the headlands.  Spectacular coast with cliffs and beaches. Seals on our far point near RedBank beach.  Not much connection to whaling apart from some of the headlands being used for whale spotting. A factory was in use for awhile on fishery beach, but not much remains today.  

Water ran out today after 10 showers, so there’s a measure for consumption as the gauge is pretty useless still.  It went to 0 after the 8th shower, so the last two were a bit risky!  Helen has told us to refill from the tap near the toilet, so we’ll do that before heading back to Port Lincoln tomorrow.  We’ve booked two nights at the National park camp near Coffin bay from tomorrow.

Into Port Lincoln laundromat for a couple of hours and some seafood for dinner tonight. Oysters and prawns with some Nannygai fillets and scallops for later.  $81!

On to Coffin Bay and a dump point at the jetty then on to the NP campground at Youngie bay.  Seemed empty when we booked, but it filled up during the day.  Did a walk up to a lookout, spectacular views across the water. Very complex channels and lakes. Quiet water perfect for kayaking and kids.  

Fresh oysters and prawn avocado salad for dinner with a bottle of sparkling wine. Forgot to collect firewood but the  fireplace is a shared one and several metres away from where we’d like it, so we were tucked up in bed by 7.

Into Coffin Bay on Friday morning to get some firewood and some other stuff we’d forgotten. Critical things, like marshmallows.  Checked out Golden Island on the way with its spectacular beaches and cliffs.  Not a lot of interest in the town so we returned to camp to explore the peninsula.  Bouncy 4WD tracks with deep sand and some rocks so didn’t want to air down. All ok for about 7 km to a point and decided that was far enough. Back to camp after an entertaining chase of an emu that refused to leave the track, its tail bouncing for a km or so. A piece of Nannygai for dinner with a salad. So much more flavour than from a shop. 

A quirky bush camp called Nationdale for Saturday and Sunday nights on the edge of Elliston. Weird sculptures at his front gate, like Godzilla chasing King Kong up Eiffel Tower, dozens of kids bikes along the fences, bikes crossed with tractors etc. water and toilet provided as well as help yourself to firewood. So we did.  Asks for a donation, so we left him $20 a night as it’s one of the best spots so far.

We packed up to drive on and took the van around the cliff top art loop from Elliston. Some interesting bits but the standouts were the seagulls and a pair of 3m thongs.  So many islands offshore with stunning cliffs of calcrete and soft sandstone eroding in marvellous patterns.  We decided that was enough of the coast and turned to head back east.  Camped by a granite hill in the centre of the eyre peninsula, Carappa peak has a free camp on its north east side.  It’s set on private land with a couple of huts so we settled in with no one else around.  We went onto one hut but about 50000 bees had died inside, filling the sink and all across the floor.  The stench was horrible. 

Only stayed the one night as we wanted to get across and into the Flinders Ranges with some shopping to do in Port Augusta.  Lunch was a roast beef dinner at a pub, so feeling very full when we stopped at about 3 on a roadside stop 5 km from Pichi Richi. Ran the gennie to warm the van before settling down.  

Through Quorn and its dump point and water, then Hawker and the Jeff Morgan art gallery. Still really impressive despite the $30 entrance fee. Lunch at a cafe before heading on into Wilpena Pound for three nights!

Still no drinking water there, and 10l boxes provided foc to all campers. We found a spot on one edge of the camping zone and settled in with no neighbours. Hot showers, a cheap washing machine, a dump point and even a wash down area for the van and troopy as we left. The $35 a night didn’t seem so bad, but it’s still a lot if you don’t use or need the facilities.  The iga is a good one with lots of choice and a liquor area.

We walked up to the Hills homestead on Thursday, then on another 600m or so to Wangara lookout, with its view of most of the Pound except for St Mary’s peak.  Sharon made it all the way, hanging onto my hand for support and balance as the trail was very rocky and uneven.  12 km walk altogether, with about 200 m of climbing according to Gaia.

Did our washing on Friday and basically mooched with a little walk to the iga. very few birds to be seen here, although ring necked parrots, and crows, were always around the campsite. A Possum even came wandering through in the early evening. Very cold now in the evenings, so the brazier was fired up and we bought another 15 kg bag of redgum for $27.50!

Saturday the 25th May and we moved on north through Bunyeroo gorge to the East Brachina campsite on the geological trail.  The campsite was beside a dry river with lots of red gums and shrubbery around.  More birds than I had seen for days! No one there when we arrived but a few cars came in and crossed the creek bed to the 4WD sites on the other side. Not visible or audible. Not as cold tonight but we still had the fire going despite the redgum not burning as well as we hoped. 

On Sunday we unhitched and drove through the gorge to the western plains. Stopped at a few of the interesting geological sites but they are still just rocks.  The detail is often microscopic, but the obvious layering of hard and soft is apparent.  A reef of worm castings (archaeocyathea?) was identified by signs, but it still looked like rocks. The tunnels were not as obvious as suggested.  We spent half an hour or so at the yellow footed rock wallaby site, scouring the hillsides and scree slopes for them with nothing visible.  Then on the way back Sharon spotted one about 5m from the road.  I stopped and backed up and managed a few pix, then driving on, I saw another one happily grazing still near the road. Several good pix.  Ali’s Memorial Day. 

Chops for dinner on the brazier, with a mix of white and red gum to get it burning.  

Off and away again by 10 on Monday 27 May. Up to Blinman and a coffee and cake stop with Quondong pie and carrot cake. Yum.  Stopped on the way to check out a stromatolite reef, but again a bit ho hum with rounded boulders to look at.  

We headed west from Blinman past Angorachina and onto a string of free camps along a riverbed. Parked on one and then found a stinking roo carcass, so quickly moved on. Found a spot to turn into the river and drove back a km or so to a flat site on the north bank looking down on water holes and reedbeds. A family of emu wandered through with one adult and 4 juveniles. Came to within 5m.

The stream actually had a little flow, so goats, Roos, emu, all coming in for a drink. Not a lot of diversity but active at least.

Packed and off in the morning for Leigh Creek and its dump point with water. Sad to find that it was $10 to use the dump point and only during office hours, after 2 pm. We used their water anyway and refilled the tank, but the dump point was locked!  Then around to the grocery store to restock staples and booze.  On to Farina and an underground bread oven which had been restored to operating condition. 150 volunteers have taken on the town to restore and rebuild, with masons etc coming in to train and advise.  Bought a loaf of sour rye, which was yummy with sausage for dinner.

Marree to refuel, to find the most expensive fuel so far, at $2.90 a litre, while it had been $2.40 in Leigh Creek. Bugger.  Gravel road from there on, for 130km to Coward Springs. Van very dusty on arrival, so a bit of work still needed resealing some corners. 

Our first hot night, where I had to get up at 2 and open the vents. Sign of the storms forecast for Thursday. Some chance that the road will be closed as a result, which would be a bit sad for our flights booked for Friday afternoon.

Visited the museum and walked the wet land trail, but drizzling storms were passing through, so not very pleasant.  No sign of Ali’s painting of the station masters cottage, now almost invisible behind shrubbery.

Sharon cleaned up inside and we tracked down some of the dust leaks, sealing as we went.  I hope it doesn’t happen again as badly.

Packed and left after light showers on Thursday deemed not to affect the road, so only did the 80 or so kms up to William creek on Friday morning for our flight that afternoon.

Flight on Friday was a little disorganised, but it did happen with just us aboard with Steve, the pilot. Sharon sat in front so I had both rear side windows for photo ops.  Nothing great as the plane is so unstable so I can’t use my telephoto. Lots of birds, probably banded stilts according to Steve. Came down to about 300m once over the water, but at 2000m over land to be less bumpy.

Back to William Creek pub for dinner as another treat on a great day out.  Goat curry for me, while Sharon went for a monster steak and ate it all!

On up the road on Saturday, blowing out a tyre destroying it as well.  Oodnadatta for some supplies and fuel starting to get expensive. The campground was quite expensive and the free camp on the edge had no appeal, so we committed to another 3 hours up to Eringa waterhole. A beautiful spot with lots of birds and some very curious pelicans coming down to inspect us.   Road had several boggy bits and one very large bull dust hole. Had to engage 4WD several times to be safe and use detours off into the scrub when possible.  370 km for the day makes it one of our longest, but again the flies are so irritating,  it’s easier and more comfortable to keep going.

On to Mt Dare finally, after 11/2 hours again with lots of bogs but no dramas. Mechanic was quite happy to service my car and swap tyres over, as well as replacing the rear brake pads. I’ve bought a 285/75 as a second spare, and will probably go that way now as the skinnies aren’t working well.  225/95 is a rare tyre in the bush despite it being the recommended size. The wider tyre has the same rolling diameter as the others, so mixing them won’t be a big issue.

Booked to stay 2 nights at Mt Dare so we can check over the gear and then leave the van there while we visit Poepells corner.  

A good rest day wandering around the empty campsite, which then filled during the afternoon. Probably around 20 camps in clusters. Filled up and paid the mechanics bill, which came to only $850, for the tyre change, new tyre, brake pads supplied and fitted, grease and oil change with oil filter as mine was the wrong one! Pleased with that as it was done on demand as well with no waiting.

Packed up the van and took it over to the storage area and rolled out for the desert on Tuesday morning.  Road to Dalhousie was ok with detours around the boggy bits, and a quick visit to the Dalhousie ruins. The swim in the springs was just wonderful, by ourselves initially, then joined by a couple of trail bikers just off the desert after 4 days from Birdsville, then a couple of women who had driven in from Oodnadatta.  By this stage we were getting wrinkly and hungry, so wandered back to the car for lunch before hitting the road again.

June 3. Out to Purnie Bore and the coloured algae in the hot water. The showers didn’t run hot after 5 minutes, so we gave up on them. Parked in a spot to camp and walked out to the bore outlet fountain.  Another 4 cars arrived from the desert but they weren’t going to stay.  A dingo appeared to be very complacent about all of us, simply lying down out of the wind. We decided to move on anyway as we were a bit worried by his over familiarity.

We set off again and settled into a nook a few kms away by some trees with the tent along side the troopy for some shelter from the wind.  We took the camping mat along and it came into its own with slightly muddy ground and being able to fit the tent as well as have some space for cooking behind the troopy. A rain shower had us rushing around packing stuff before we got too wet, but we forgot the side of the tent was still open and Sharon’s sleeping bag copped some water through the mesh window, but ok.

We stuck to our usual routine, getting up after sunrise and getting away by about 9:30. By then a squad of 6 motorbikes and several cars had gone by on their way to Mt Dare. That set the scene for a very busy day driving with well over 20 cars going west past us. Including 4 with trailers against national park wishes.  We even overtook one group of 7, including one trailer and an elderly landrover with an equally elderly driver. Still only averaging 18 kph, making just over 100 km for the day.  Easy sand dunes from our direction so rarely had to engage 4WD, but the steep slopes on the eastern side could be intimidating to go up. After the showers, everything was quite damp, so the sand was firm.

We set up camp at 4 pm in a swale a few kms east of the Erabina track junction, leaving about 75 km to Poeppels corner tomorrow, then to start the return.  Very cold overnight, troopy said 6C in the morning, with lots of dew saturating everything. Clear and sunny day for the first time, with the flowering outstanding on the dunes. 

Very hummocky track for most of the way, so quite slow but steady if bumpy with the stuff in the back banging as we rocked.  Poeppels lake proved a bit too boggy at the crossing, although we had crossed several other boggy lakes, but with an 18km detour we declined and waved at the marker on the opposite bank. That meant we had to back track to the Knoll junction as we could not reach the K1 line without a major detour.  We will return via the Waa line.

Lots of west bound traffic on the French line as the Finke race is on soon, including a group of 6 dune buggies.  Not sure when. But we were passed by 72 cars during the morning until we decided to turn around and start back.  We even had to go past the group of seven, and the landrover, as we went back.  That meant 10 cars passed us eastbound in an hour and a half.  Turned south at the Knoll junction to climb Appodina knoll for the view. Sharon managed the climb very well to be blown away at by the view .

Several dingos spotted including one at the French line /Knoll tk junction. We moved on another 12 km to hopefully be out of his range. We finally camped about 10 km south of the knoll at about 4:30pm. Camel tracks near the water pools nearby.

June 7. We set off down the remaining few kms to the Waa line and turned west again.  We began with a small clay pan crossed successfully, then an island for a few hundred metres before entering the large clay pan. The track seemed ok but about 400 m into it we dropped on the left side and stopped with the chassis off the ground and all wheels spinning. Bugger.

I dug out around the wheels and got maxtrax plates up to the low wheels, but could not get the wheels to bite on them at all.

I started digging a hole for the spare wheel at the limit of the winch cable to find a rock layer about 30cm down which was very hard to dig with only a shovel. I tried with the wheel in several positions, including horizontal, only managing to plough the mud up. The hole got steadily deeper through the day, with the wheel standing upright. But every time the strain came on, the wheel rose up from the grave.  

I brought out the high lift jack to try and raise the low wheel enough to get a  trax plate under it,but the only jacking point is the tow ball at the centre, so lifting the entire rear end. Probably around 2500kg with an 1800 kg jack. The jack clogged with mud and jammed, failing to lift the wheel at all.

No one drove past on Friday or Saturday.

We spent Friday night, the 7th, in the car despite the tilt and decided to not do that again. 

I kept digging through Saturday, eventually finding the correct angle for the wheel and the cable trench deep enough so that it locked into the hole and the strain came onto the cable.  Then the main winch cable broke the link to its drum.

I brought out the back up hand winch and hooked it on, struggling to open the jaws as they hadn’t been used for some years. It finally threaded correctly and I started pumping the handle.  It wound the tension right up until the secondary jaw would not lock on, that’s the limit,  but the car hadn’t moved one cm.

Exhausted by 4 pm, we decided to trigger the personal locator beacon and move camping gear back 1.5km to knolls track and camp there well away from the mud. Our first car since turning off the French line then came through with Doug and Eva with Christine and Michael. And a sat phone.

We rang Mt Dare with mixed results, possibly arranging for them to send out their recovery truck, but not really getting any sense from the people there. But they called Birdsville police who rang us immediately, suggesting that we go with the travellers to Birdsville and get it sorted from there. We decided to wait for the Mt Dare truck. They left their sat phone with us for the night and camped nearby.  On Sunday morning they collected the phone and carried on their way, leaving some lovely fruit cake and other food, making us promise to let them know how we went.

 We spent an uncomfortable Saturday night on one mattress on the ground, but at least inside the tent. A dingo howling outside in the early morning underscored how alone we felt.

I walked several more trips collecting camping gear from the car, as it was obvious that we were going to be there for some time. Another couple of cars went through later that morning, checking on us and leaving more food. 

We were relaxing inside when aircraft noise raised to a new level.  We were used to jets flying over, but this one was just too loud. I made it outside to just get a glimpse of a red and white plane heading away.  As I watched it turned, starting a loop to come around again. It passed directly over the car and was recognisably a Search and Rescue plane arriving in response to the plb signal.  It went around again, as we waved, passing over our tent three times, and on the final pass dropping a canister on a parachute.

We got the can open to find a handset on top, switched on with the pilot calling. I responded, confirming that we were healthy and did not need a medivac. Food, water and a satellite phone were in there also and with the pilot telling us what to do we were called by SAR in Adelaide confirming all our details and that we were ok, just stuck. They told us to switch the phone on next morning to receive a welfare check but to only turn it on at other times if we needed help and to call 000. 

Sunday night had us considerable relieved, with us both on our stretchers and mattress, with ample food and water and the knowledge that they were out there to look after us and that the Mt Dare truck would be on its way on Tuesday morning after some repairs on Monday.

We had a slow start on Monday morning, with me doing a final walk out to the car for more stuff.  I got back to the dune above camp and turned to point out our car to Sharon when we saw another car on the flat! Then there were 7 of them driving across.  We were very excited seeing our salvation in a crew being able to winch us out.

They first had to get two of their own cars unbogged, but finally turned their attention to us. They decided to snatch us forward, despite being told about the broken gear. Three attempts all failed, breaking a link, a strap and my tie down point before they gave up.

After much debate and pressure from port Augusta police, we finally agreed to go with them to Birdsville, and cancel the truck from Mt Dare.  

Monday night 10th. camped near Appodima knoll. 

Tuesday night camped on Qaa line about 40 km from Eyre creek. We did make it to Poeppels corner, just not how we planned!

Wednesday night in a cabin at Birdsville.

The tag along tour group took most of our camping gear to hold for us at the leaders home in Albury.  Mattresses, stretchers, gas bottle, water cans, tent, 

Thursday night in the cabin.

Friday afternoon we chartered a plane to take us back to Mt Dare and await recovery.

Friday night in the van, with me departing with the recovery truck leaving at 5:30am. Sharon stayed to look after and start cleaning the van.

Saturday night camped by the rig road, about 30 km from the car after a 12 hour drive.

Sunday morning we arrived at the car after the truck successfully crossed the first smaller clay pan. 

The first attempt failed, breaking my small strap after we used it as the last link as we were 1m short, using my two, their 4 and the full length of their winch cable to pull me backwards.

Glen and I did another half hour of digging, trying to clear the chassis and getting trax behind both low wheels. Hooked it all up again and she actually moved for the first time, grabbed the trax and rose up out of the hole to my great relief. 

We were slowly towed backwards across the pan, heart sinking as we dropped into another hole but drove straight out again.

Finally arrived on the beach and started smiling again. Cal and Glen set off for their next recovery, while I packed the car for travel. I left a few minutes later, with 365km of desert travel to get back to Mt Dare.

I managed to get about half way back before my back passenger side wheel fell off while climbing a dune.  I lost the hub cap and three of the special wheel nuts for the alloy rim. I suspect that the mechanic didn’t tighten all the wheel nuts properly after replacing the brake pads, if indeed they were replaced at all as they wore out very quickly.

I tried reversing down but couldn’t get off the slope.  I couldn’t jack the car up as it  would roll as soon as the spring was off the ground, so I simply dug a trench alongside the hub hoping that I could roll the spare wheel down it and onto the hub.  That worked eventually and I was able to reverse out of the hole back down to flat land to tighten all the bolts and continue on my merry way. The spare alloy wheel had to stay inside the car as I didn’t have enough nuts for it.  The next challenge was finding a camp by a dead tree so I could have a fire to cook on.  10 km from the memorial on rig road.

Monday morning I was off and rolling by 7:30, stopping every 30 km or so to tighten the wheel nuts as one of the studs had snapped and one was cross threaded.  It held together and got me back to Mt Dare for lunch after a swim at Dalhousie springs and a cup of tea from a couple of east bound NZ people. 10 hours all up from the bog to the van.  So good to be back.

We stated cleaning inside the car that afternoon, and arranged for the mechanic to fix the broken and damaged studs in the morning.  That became a 4 hour job as the hand brake drums were full of mud as were the cooling slots in the disc brake rotor. Glenn also changed tyres so the most worn one went to spare, giving me two newish tyres on the back. I spent an hour with their pressure washer, trying to get the mud out from underneath without much effect. I hope it dries to fall off with the vibration of the next few days.

We restocked with what veges were available, refuelled, filled the empty gas bottle, filled the water tank with bore water and finally paid the bill. Recovery total was $7100, mechanic repairs were $150, fuel $360. 

Off and on our way to Old Andodo by 10:30. Some bull dust on the way but nothing to worry about.  The living museum homestead is still unchanged, with Mollies presence felt everywhere. The landline phone was operational in her office, and the invitation was there for us to use it! We tried about 6 numbers, but no one would pick up on a call from an unknown number. Interesting how telemarketing has destroyed that communication system. We paid our respects at her grave site, but the flies were the worst we had experienced so far, so we moved north on Binns track on a good gravel road to camp another 130km north right up against a rocky ridge, on WikiCamps identified as Arookara range. Good to be by ourselves again although we were surrounded by cattle, very curious in the early morning.

On a good gravel road through to Santa Teresa, where we were able to call ahead and after a few calls, managed to find a van park with available unpowered sites. Well out of Alice at Temple Bar, but quiet until the dufduf music started up across the creek on Saturday night. I undid some purse strings on Friday and spent up big on a new texting plb, starlink internet and a latest model iPhone, as well as a big load of food and alcohol.  So we now have three avenues for calling for help and staying in touch. 

Setting them all up took most of Saturday 23rd along with lunch with Rachel and Corey at Quinox in town. Then Sunday lunch at the Olive Pink Botanic Gardens and the Bean Tree cafe, followed by a frustrating drive everywhere in town looking for a refill for the small gas bottle. Finally bought an 8 kg bottle and managed to fit it into the gas compartment.  Sharon also managed to do four loads of washing over the weekend and get everything dry and packed away for our next segment into the Western MacDonalds and Kings canyon. No camping at Kings now, so the resort is the only option at $69 a night for an unpowered site. Not going to go on down to Uluṟu or the Olga’s this time.  

Booked for 3 nights at Redbank gorge to give us a bit of a break, then one night at Kings resort before returning to Alice and out to Trephina gorge for a few nights. We couldn’t find Rachel there, so assumed that they had decided to start their walk rather than catch the sunset from Mt Sonder. Coming down from there by headlight would be tricky as it’s a good 3 hour walk. 

I had selected a camp away from others and large enough for the car and van, but on arrival discovered that the slot was angled such that we would have to drive forwards into it. And not use the car again.  Instead we drove around and went the wrong way on the one way track back to our camp, and so could reverse in, unhitch, and have the car to use. Had a pleasant day off with internet and birding with a few walks around the camp area.

Wednesday 26th.  Walked up to the big waterhole in RedBank gorge, with someone even swimming in it. Very cold water and quite difficult negotiating the rocks and sand to get there.  About 1km from the car park.  A rock wallaby was seen by one group, but it hid for us. Back to camp for lunch and then drove out to Ormiston Gorge. Big permanent water hole complete with sunbathing backpackers. Walked up the hill to an overhanging look out. White gum lookout.

Thursday 27th we picked up and rolled on down to the Kings Canyon Resort. Hundreds of camps at every level up to 1000’s a night. Helicopter tours above the gorge, turning it into a war zone. Concrete paths up the creek bed to about half way, but not getting near the waterfall at the end. Signs saying that security cameras were watching to make sure everyone stayed on the made path. Huge carpark where once was the camp site. The Discovery camp area is about 6 km from the gorge. It all looked to me like a money grabbing exploitation of a natural resource that should be looked after as a National park.

We moved on in the morning after some shopping, all laundry done, gas bottle filled, water filled and refueled so we felt we got some value out of the place. Sealed road for abut 100 km east then gravel when the sealed road turned south to join the Lassiter Hwy out to Uluṟu. Ok on the dirt, running at 70-80 kph, but an oncoming car flashed at me, so I slowed down just in time to catch the sight of a washout full of bull dust. Would have been nasty at speed, so we warned the next oncomer as well.

Set up camp at the Henbury Meteorite craters, no one else for the night and the worst toilet so far with no seat or paper and lots of blowflies.the craters are quite large for their age, about 4000 years. 4000 tonnes of meteor rock has been removed from the site, so the original size must be much more than that.  Quite a bang when it hit I would imagine. 

The Starlink had been giving trouble at Redbank camp, dropping in and out. We didn’t need it at kings resort, but it wouldn’t boot up at all once we arrived at Henbury.  So we decided to go straight into Alice and take it back to Harvey Norman to replace or advise.  Not that straightforward as Starlink have to remove the registration of the unit before it can be replaced.  We spent a couple of hours trying to get it to work again, while texting the Starlink support . No reply in that time, so HN couldn’t do anything. Gave up to try again on Monday and see if they actually reply before Sharon can go ballistic in HN.  Both of us angry and frustrated by the loss of this bit of high tech.  We booked to stay again at Temple Bar for Monday and Tuesday night to try and resolve this issue.

On out to Trephina gorge for Saturday night, 29th June, and our allocated campsite proved to be for a tent, but the camp had a volunteer supervisor who was able to have our allocated site changed to one more fitting for our van. Trying to fit into site 1, I also managed to break the attachment for the bottom of the awning support on one of the guard posts. I got that fixed while Sharon fixed dinner, then a water pipe burst. So we had no supply for the night. Something else to do in the morning.  The floor tiles are also lifting badly again after I glued them all down back on the Eyre peninsula. The floor is obviously rotting under them so not sure how to go about the fix. On the road or at home?  Too many knocks today, so both of us feeling down and frustrated.

Repaired the broken water pipe. Just a pinhole under the van that I cut out and fitted a joiner.  Still no internet with Starlink.  Light showers of rain overnight with a cool and overcast day.  We managed to fit in a couple of walks between showers. One alongside Trephina gorge and back along the creek, which Sharon recognised from her trip in 2006.  We drove out to Ross River resort and the walk up N’Dhala gorge with its petroglyphs.  The rock clippings were not well identified, with several we spotted away from the track more impressive than the labelled ones.  But still not terribly impressive on an overcast day.  Rock cliffs were stunning.  

Cold and drizzly, so Sharon cooked up a stew which we ate in the van. Threw everything into the car for the night. Snuggled up in bed playing solitaire by 7pm!

Drizzle and showers all night, so glad we packed up.  Breakfasted and repacked to head back to Alice to try and sort out the Starlink disaster.

Checked out Corroboree rock and Jessie Gap, then Emily Gap was too waterlogged to get anywhere near the paintings.  A message came in from Starlink support once we had internet, identifying the cable as the problem.   And that they would send a new one to our home address as soon as possible.

Monday July 1.  Back to Temple Bar to set up camp, then into Harvey Norman to see if they had a cable to suit. They couldn’t even open a packet to see if it was the same as a normal Ethernet cable, and were no help at all.  Sharon nearly exploded.  Then we went back to Jaycar/Alicetronics who had given good advice before but didn’t have Starlink in stock. The manger told us that the Starlink cable was the same as a normal Ethernet cable and sold us a 5 m one for $20.  Back at Temple Bar and connected it all up again to have solid internet for the rest of the night. Problem solved at last with no thanks to HN or Starlink.

At this point an email came in from Starlink support agreeing that our best option was to return the whole unit to HN in exchange for a new one which Starlink would then change the registration. So on Tuesday morning we went again to HN who on seeing this email, happily swapped it for a complete new setup.

Territory Day today, so fireworks started around 5 pm and went solidly all evening and into the early hours, even this far out of town.  Despite the law insisting that fireworks could only be set off between 6 and 11pm. Haha.

Wednesday morning, 3rd, we tested the new Starlink and advised them that it did in fact connect, then packed and rolled out heading north. Devils Marbles was the initial goal, but the camp area was packed wall to wall with caravans. We could have fitted somewhere, but more were rolling in as we lapped the camp. We decided to carry on out through Kurundi station to Whistleduck waterhole and camp in the National Park. It was another 100 km making it by far our longest day, so we’ll stay at least two nights to check it out properly. 

WikiCamps had it incorrect that you could pay on site, but no, online bookings only. So we found a site and then went to book it to find it already booked for  tomorrow. Bugger.  Too late to change, so we set up there anyway, and booked the one next door which had not been cleared of tall grass.  Steak and chips for dinner and as no one was around we ran the gennie to heat the van while we showered after sitting by a fire to eat dinner.

Packed and moved out of 6 into 8 although we were booked into 7! Booked a third night, in 8 this time, as a treat as it is a very peaceful place. Two cars pulled into site 6 in the late afternoon, so it was just as well we moved out. Spectacular flowering with wattles and the holly grevillea in bloom everywhere, with many spp. honeyeaters taking full advantage.

Left the Starlink running all day and managed to flatten the second battery in the car, so that’s a no no. We’ll have to just run it for a bit morning and evening. Van battery seems happier with the car disconnected, with the panels now putting the voltage up over 14. Suspect something is wrong with the second car battery so I may change it to the spare and leave the van disconnected for now.  

Friday 5th we walked the 1.5 km down to the main rock hole, then back the same distance along the rocky river bed. Hard walking but Sharon coped well. Managed to couple of good shots as small birds were very active.

After lots of discussion, we decided to go on into Epenarra and north from there. Sharon was very concerned about taking the van on a rough track, especially for the 116km up to the highway.  I was able to remember that it was mostly firm sand, but I forgot about the bull dust. So we got through ok, but very dusty inside again. Refuelled and watered at Epenarra, and were able to have fish and chips for lunch at the Barkly roadhouse. On for another 120 km so Saturday night we were camped on Brunette creek just before the homestead. The road north was badly damaged, with hundreds of potholes from the truck traffic, making it worse than the track north from Epenarra.  Our first warmish night! Dropping right down to 19C.

Onwards north in the morning, with 250 km to Cape Crawford and a refuelling stop. Didn’t bother with food, just went west 10 km to Little river and a poolside camp with 4 others already settled by midday. We camped next to another birdo who was using a spotting scope home adapted to his iPhone.

Headed north from there on Monday morning, with 150 km of gravel road with the odd washout and water crossing. Just enough to keep me on my toes. Sharon even spotted our first buffalo, and a large python striking at the car. Camped on site 11 at Butterfly Falls and watched the hordes roll in hunting for a site. We just fitted into ours, so lord only knows how some of the big rigs cope. Had a lovely swim by the falls, with waterlilies and an egret watching. A few other people wandered by as well. A capture of a cockatoo feeding on a grevillea was a highlight. 

.Jo and Len with Peta and Tim rolled in on our second day, so we had a good catch up and drinks on sunset. Glenda G used to work with them both from Townsville tafe, such a small world.

On north again on Wednesday morning to find a free camp close enough to Mataranka to check in before 12.  Settled eventually at Mt Price rest area, with a rock rib between us and the road, and no one else. A very peaceful night, with the morning occupied by many apostle birds and flocks of little friar birds. We filled the van water tank from the supply there.

Into Mataranka for Thursday morning, using the dump point before heading in to win one of the last 6 unpowered sites. Would have preferred a powered one, but none left by 11:30. Back into town for some fresh fruit and bread, forgetting that alcohol sales are only after 2 pm.  So back into town again later this afternoon for Sharon’s whiskey. Another water line burst, same one as last time, running out to the tap by the tow point. I replaced the whole line this time, with much swearing as it has a direct gravity flow to the hot water tank. 14 litres of piping hot water draining out while I’m trying to pull both ends out of their fitting. 

We drove out to the resort and its thermal pool to be again confronted by the crowds of people passing through. Two pools, one slightly warmer than the other, but twenty or so bodies in each warming them up anyway. Had a beer in the resort bar before going back to camp. A bower bird and a blue faced honeyeater were cleaning tables while we were there.  Sharon wanted another dip in the bitter springs stream so we went back there and I bird watched while she did the lap. A brown honey eater building a nest was a highlight for me. 30 photos cut back to 3.

We had booked three nights in Katherine Gorge campground as well as a dinner cruise and  a full day canoe trip up the river as celebration for my birthday coming up.

We stopped in Katherine to buy some more toys, like a leaf blower and a solar blanket so we can be more confident about recharging batteries. Lockdown clamps to replace the dodgy clips on the back doors, which leak dust solidly. The solar and batteries in the van were still having trouble, so we changed the booking to a powered site to get everything fully charged again. No dramas, just wall to wall caravans and children. And an aircon running for the hot parts of the day.  We’d forgotten the heat after so much cold weather.

The evening gorge cruise was just ok, for me the guide talked too much, as usual, trying to cram as much information as possible into the limited time. With so much to say and so little to actually see, the mismatch is too great. However he spoke clearly and well, with more training on use of a microphone or better equipment to hush the mumbles.  After that, the dinner was excellent. We both had the eye fillet steak, but Sharon’s had a lot of gristle. A tasting platter of crocodile, kangaroo, smoked chicken, zucchini hummus with onion and beetroot jam we shared with the other 4 on our table. A sparkling rose to start and a cup of iced salmon gum tea as a palate cleanser. Lemon curd with macadamia and meringue to finish.  The exciting part was the slightly drunken walk in the dark all the way back to the camp. We drove to the car park near the jetty for the departure the following morning after a predawn wake up.

Down at the jetty by 7:30 with around another 50 people on half day, full day and overnight trips. We were all taken by cruise boat up the first gorge, as salty crocs are considered too much of a threat. Park staff diligently check above the first rapids after each wet season to assure everyone that there are no crocs above that point. So a $4000 fine for swimming below the first rapids!

Well over 50 canoes, singles and doubles are chained up to a launching pontoon at the start of gorge two.  A guide pulls out a boat and helps load the people before pushing them off and away. The half day people go first, then us, then the campers. So that process takes well over half an hour.  We finally started paddling just after 9.

Gorge 2 is about a kilometre to a gentle rapid, about 30m long, with a queue of boats waiting their turn. Our routine for the next 6 or so of these is for Sharon to dismount and make her own way as best she can through the boulders to a spot above the rapid where she can remount. I push and drag the boat up the easiest route until I can paddle in to where she is waiting. The top of the third gorge is another kilometre and this is where the half day people are required to stop, while we can go on. This portage is about 4 seperate falls of rock, each about 50 m apart, sometimes we were able to paddle short hops together while sometimes it was easier for Sharon to walk on. It was hard work getting through all of these, each one a bit more difficult. We paddled on to the top of the fourth gorge, where there were some large sandbars and a rock mountain which would be like an island in the wet season. The rapids were large boulders, making life difficult on foot as well as in the water, so we stopped for lunch and a break for a couple of hours. At 2pm we decided to go on up anyway and have a look at gorge 5. Another kilometre of tight gorge with towering walls overhead closing in on us. Probably the most spectacular of the trip, but we started heading back down. We checked the map later and the gorges from then on are all small with large rapid areas, so much easier to get up and down them when there is more water.

We had plenty of time so were able to drift a lot with the wind and current, staying in shade close up against a rock wall. Sharon still had to dismount and walk for every rapid as there was not enough water to allow the boat to float through. Only once was I able to stay in the boat, and I still lost a lot of plastic off the bottom.  Mostly I had to get out to lift it over a rock and let go, throwing my top half  over the back end to drift through.

We arrived back at the pontoon by 3:30, with deadline at 4:45 for the cruise boat to take us all back to the jetty.  Very glad to sit in the shade for the hour or so helping recovery as we were both pretty exhausted. 

Dinner from the bistro was all we could manage once back at camp, then an early night.

Monday the 15th we had organised absolutely nothing to give us a chance to catch up on some of the maintenance and repairs. More sealing and dust removal under the bed, replace the broken clip on the back door, seal up the external shower, test the new solar blanket. The troopy also is making some odd noises when I brake, but it seems to be the ABS kicking in according to Facebook. I still need to take off a front wheel and check bearings just in case. Seemed all ok after I checked wheel nuts and hubcap.

We managed to squeeze ourselves out of the jam packed camp without hitting anything and headed into Katherine for shopping. I did manage a haircut, which was getting rather out of control. Dump point in town and water refilled before leaving, so we are all set for the next phase. Batteries are all fully charged after the three days on the power.

South through to Daly Waters, then east another 32 km to a suitable gravel site a bit off the road. Very little traffic anyway. Some grazing Bronzewing pigeons made an appearance just at sunset.

On east heading for Little River, when the frequent diversions off the side for road trains finally had a tyre on the van let go. I didn’t notice anything except a loss of power, so it took a while for the penny to drop and pull over. The tyre by then was absolutely shredded, bits dropping off.

The fun bit was trying to undo the wheel nuts, as I could not find the half inch socket extension. I used the 3/8 one, with the winch handle for leverage, and it broke after undoing 4 of the six nuts. I ground the round end to fit and used a cold chisel and hammer to get them off eventually.  Had to use both the high lift and the screw jack to lift the axle enough as the chain spring limiter was also broken. Don’t know how long it had been gone. But an hour and a half later, the spare was in place. 

Stayed two nights at Little River, hoping for some more birds, but nothing interesting appeared for me.  Just more crowds of large vans. Quiet people at least. We booked for two nights at seven emu station for my birthday weekend.  

 Dropped into Borroloola to empty the toilet and found the most revolting dump point so far for the trip. At least the water seemed ok so filled the tank through the filter. Refuelled and bought some groceries as well as the socket extensions I needed. 

Seven Emu only have 7 sites along the cliff top, with a large area set aside for overflow,so that’s where we finished up. Dry country with not much of a river view and very few birds. We went for a little drive down to a fishing beach, but found nothing inspiring. Sat around waiting for some birds to show for the afternoon. Blue winged kookaburras evaded the camera, but eventually one stopped for long enough.  At least we saw a couple of crocs drifting up the river.

Back on the road for Sunday 21, badly corrugated for long stretches but at least there were no road trains. Camped at the Hann river crossing with water birds in profusion right by the camp. Would have stayed on but for a cold wind that came up overnight. Continued on to the Hells Gate roadhouse and some cake for morning tea. Instant coffee! Sharon’s gut was playing up within an hour and took 24 hours to recover. Camped by Bohle bridge about a km south of our road on the road to Riversleigh. A rapidly flowing stream in forest with large fish scales on the bank. 

Lots of road trains overnight so a bit noisy but ok really. 

On into Burketown, then Leichhardt Falls looping through the camping areas before returning to the main road. On towards Normanton, deciding to go to Leichhardt Lagoon to set up and go into town tomorrow. Set up by 3 with the afternoon sun blazing into our faces. 

Back into Normanton for washing, fuel and a few groceries. Fresh bread! Back for a lazy afternoon birding. Sacred kingfisher the highlight.

Packed and rolling by 9:30 on Thursday, but three warning lights came up on the dash. All of them required that the car not be driven and Toyota contacted for repair. Brake malfunction, skid warning and abs not working warning. Had a major run around with RACQ, first online, then had to call them, then had to wait for their premium service. Each time giving full details of the car and the van. The operator was certain that the van was not registered and could therefore not be assisted by them. Until we found the registration papers when it suddenly appeared on her screen too.  Only to find that their nearest responder was in Karumba and not available til Saturday. The next was at Burketown also not available with a broken down truck, then next was at Cloncurry, well over 3 hours away.  At that point we decided to call the local mechanic in Normanton for his advice. Also not available for actual work for three weeks, but could offer advice for $120.   So we decided to go into Normanton slowly and see what he thought. We set off from the car park and braked hard on the way out to see if they still worked. They did. Then all the warning lights went off so we were free to go having wasted an hour on the phone. We did call the Normanton mechanic and racq to cancel the jobs.  Something is obviously happening with the front brakes and a full strip and clean will be needed. Not just yet, I hope. (A month later it started again, so I pulled and cleaned the front brake sensors with immediate effect).

We were only going to go to the Little River bridge (another one) to camp, but it was occupied by an old couple in a camper living rough, so we kept going to the Gregory river West Bank campsite. Another 10 vans joined us but although dusty there is lots of space and with everyone facing out, you don’t notice the others.

Cobbold Gorge camp for two nights in a powered site just below the dam wall. Good birding with many spp around. Did the tour on Sat afternoon, then the bistro for dinner.  So a good stay in comfort. Still debating whether the freshie at the tour start is real or plastic.  A close up of his head shows yellow eyes, and one person on the tour swore that a foot moved.

On to Mount Surprise for lunch after a morning tea at Jardine lagoon campsite on the Einasleigh road. Caravans everywhere at MS, so kept going despite planning to stay there. Fuel and food at Mt Garnet and on down the Silver Valley to Gypsy Jules camp by the Wild River. Footprints on the food drawer in the morning and Sharon later found a chop bone from dinner in the laundry drawer. Rat or possum? Hope it’s not still in there somewhere.  

Booked three nights at Pandanus in PD to check Meander over and decide whether to keep going north or start back. Absolutely packed caravan park with us squeezed into a corner site near the main road. Showery and cloudy so not looking too good for the few days we are here. 

Checked out the inflatable this morning and it’s still in place, with low air on one side but otherwise ok. I checked with Pete and Asti and the outboard etc are still on their back verandah, unmoved in 8 months.

Tuesday 30 July started with a visit to Asti and Pete’s to collect the outboard etc. Pumped it up and launched to find the engine frozen and the starter cord jammed out. Oh dear. Drifted to the jetty and tied up to work on it. Disconnected the interlock so the starter cord could rewind and found that there was no oil in the sump. Had suspicions, as there was oil dripping out of the prop shaft and decided that the engine was frozen as the cylinder was full of oil. Removed the spark plug and engine turned over, spraying oil everywhere. Washed the plug in petrol, put it back and she eventually started with lots of black smoke for a bit. No dramas after that so we puttered on out to Meander.  Floor was awash, as expected but not too bad considering it’s been 8 months. Bucketed it out and fitted two more sump pumps. One big one back under the engine with a float switch and another in the middle bay on manual. Hopefully that should keep the water levels down inside a bit more.

Storage battery seems ok, but the starter battery was only on 7 volts, with a broken lead from the solar panel. Repaired that and lights came back up on the controller. So that might help there. Off to dinner at the tin shed with Pete and Asti as thanks for storing the gear.

Another hot water pipe burst on Tuesday, supply line to the shower, so I pulled it off and replace it with new pipe from the floor up. The junction into the shower was not a good one, and it gave lots of trouble with leaks. Could not undo it or get it to stop leaking so pulled the whole thing out and started trying to get the defective join out. it had been glued in with epoxy, so lots of careful grinding and drilling before it finally came away. I cleaned out the threads and was able to insert a new junction and get it to seal properly. Put the whole thing back together successfully and no leaks! A good win.

Lunch at the club with Birthday vouchers for $50, then out to the boat for a clean and test of the pumps.  The dead battery is up to 8 volts and I found the wind turbine supply wire also broken. Fixed that one and fitted some hose clamps on the big pump so it won’t break loose. Sharon wiped down all the surfaces, eventually getting the floor and walls clean and shiny with the oil and mould gone.

Gary appeared at the club at 10 and we went out to Meander while Sharon stayed with the car. Gary had a good look over, didn’t want it started, and liked it but couldn’t commit until he’d discussed it with his wife. So a maybe still.

We took the outboard, fuel, keys and pump back to Pete’s and drove down to Cairns and the rv shop for awning parts. They didn’t have our brand,but gave us enough info to find ours online. It’s an Awnlux brand and the parts are on their site so we can buy them once I check the bottom bracket with them.  I’ll have to disconnect it and take a decent pic.

On down to Babinda to meet up with Darryl for dinner, raining all the way, then the rv park there was crowded and /or muddy. Not very inviting at all so Sharon called Darryl to see if we could just meet up for a cuppa and keep going. He was on his way to Cairns! So probably wasn’t going to meet us for dinner anyway.  We kept going down to Ingham and Ann’s front lawn.  With Lamb shanks for dinner and lots of Baileys, and 42, a citrus liqueur like Cointreau. We collapsed into bed at 10:30.

Ann and Sharon went off to play bridge for Friday morning while I did another repair on the shower tap getting it to flow properly and a pressure wash of the van. She is looking black and white for the first time in months.  Lunch at Fioris cafe with several of Sharon’s friends then fish dinner at Ann’s home. 

On Saturday a request to look at the boat came in from a serious buyer in Cairns. So we decided that I should go back up on Sunday, show him the boat and come back, leaving Sharon with Ann for the day. It rained on me all the way up after a 5 am departure, but cleared by 10 to meet Pierre at the yacht club and putter up to Meander. Back to Ingham by 5 after a 720 km drive. Then mooched around on Monday before finally packing and heading down to Townsville to park on Angie’s front lawn for the night. Dinner with the gang across the road at the Avenue hotel. I had been worried about one of the front tyres shedding rubber chunks, so found a shop with the size to replace the old ones. He fitted two and moved my second spare to the rear in about 15 minutes! $700. 385/75 16 instead of the skinny 225/95 16. Same rolling diameter so should be fine. I’ll fit the wider tyres to the rear once we get back to Corryong.

  A text came in on Tuesday morning, 6 Aug, from Pierre that he had gone for another boat. Bummer.

We drove down to Bowen on Wednesday to Ann’s daughter Shelley and her husband Jeff. And their dogs, Snow a cattle dog and Henry the staffy. Spent the evening playing cards and slept inside as they had to leave in the early morning and it meant we didn’t have to pack up much to get going on Thursday.

On south through Finch Hatton to Eungella national park and Broken River bush camp. Had a bit of trouble booking it online as it wouldn’t accept a 2 night booking although it said there were vacancies. It did accept two one night bookings. Just as well as the ranger dropped by for a compliance check. Windy and cold with a few showers rolling through, but managed some good platypus pix and a three km walk in the forest.

Headed south on Saturday, going inland to the dam then south through Nebo to Theresa Creek Dam, 30 km out of Clermont. Weather stayed cold and windy, with the awning clattering all night. I rolled it back to a metre and we moved inside for the afternoon, spending the morning in Clermont to do our laundry, shopping, pub lunch, fuel and gas. Several rounds of 5 crowns and I’m just a loser always to Sharon.  We won 5 hands each but I still finished with over 100 to her 45. Same with the first game although closer at 45 to 60.  Cooked on the small stove inside.

On south on Monday morning through to Rubyvale for lunch and a bag of tailings to wash when we get home. Then across to Alpha and south again to camp on the Barcoo river at Tambo. No rain but still windy, but parked the van back against the wind to keep the kitchen sheltered. No water next to the camp but we were on the end of the waterhole.

Several requests had come in from people wanting to know about Meander. One from Tully looked real.  We decided to return north and camp on Pete’s back lawn while we work on the boat and be available to show her off .

We still have time and it’s still cold down south. We may even be able to go up Cape York.

Spent Tuesday pottering around not doing much but wondering about going back. Pete and Asti said fine, Bryan was unavailable after a knee replacement, and finally submitted the claim on Suncorp for the car recovery expenses.

 Wednesday 14th drove to Barcaldine for fuel, dump point and water then on through Muttaburra to Hughenden to a pullover parking area 40 km before the Porcupine Gorge. 612km

Thursday on to Porcupine gorge lookout to try for a pic of the Red Goshawk without success, but managed a blurry pic of a peregrine falcon and a good one of a perched Kestrel. Then Mt Garnet for fuel and takeaway then on down to Newell Beach and Pete and Asti front lawn.  618 km.

Friday 16Aug and we’re out to the boat again. No reply from Joe yet, so that’s may not eventuate but happy to get everything working again on the boat.  Sharon cleaned the stove and got it working well. Then oiled the timber work and cleaned the fridge. Which worked once plugged in!

I fitted the spare battery from the troopy, but still no go. A screwdriver across the starter terminals had it spinning with no contact so a bit of wd40 and some tapping on the gear and away it went. Engine checked! 

Toilet not flushing so pulled out the wiring and cleaned all the contacts and replaced the fuse and away it went too. Toilet checked!

Anchor winch not working and no power at the winch, so still to look at that one.

We spoke to Bugs on the way out and he said he acts as a broker quite often! Happy to take her on, so I can call him when we leave.

Sharon cleaned all the cupboards on the starboard side while I played with the winch wiring. Faulty isolation switch by the battery and loose connections at the winch. Working with the jump starter, but not yet as it should. It seems that the winch power supply cable has a break somewhere which has corroded , blocking current flow.   Left it for now as a long term issue for when I can take off wall panelling.

Bugs has taken her on as a liaison, but won’t actually look for buyers. I’ll pay him $500 for him to take people out to her and show them over.

A week of wet and windy weather has us rethinking going to the tip, so we decided to start heading slowly homewards on Friday 23rd after the car service, for Tommies 1st birthday and use Sharon’s Qantas credit for the nz flight in Dec.

We wanted a shortish day to start and planned to stop at 8 mile creek but the permanent campers appeared to have spread to both banks, making it quite unsavoury. We moved onto a roadside pullover just north of Blackbraes np. Not much traffic so ok. 

Boring drive for Saturday down through Hughenden to Corfield township rest area beside the pub. Quiet again and only two other vans parked there.

Winton Age of Dinosaurs exhibit and the Waltzing Matilda museum on Sunday then camp by the long waterhole. Several dozen other vans, loose cattle wandering through and even a couple of roosters free ranging. We rolled in at midday so had a good spot until the others rolled in around us. Some apostle bird entertainment to end the afternoon.

Lots more traffic during the night than we assumed, but not too bad. Camped in a roadside pullover about 30 km south of Longreach after refuelling. Some cockatiels presented themselves for a pic, but very dry all around.

Carried on down to Jundah, almost to Windorah before some green returned to the roadside. Had a back tyre slowly go down. So the tpms caught it at 25 psi. Changed the wheel without drama and carried on to fix it later.  Camped by Cooper creek crossing, with the river very full, but dry all round.  Not much bird life.

The tyre fix proved a little more complicated. Soap spray all over the tyre showed no leaks! Then the edge seal and valve, nothing. Then the rim . Finally a hairline crack in the rim showed itself. Bugger. See what Quilpie can do tomorrow. Probably caused when that same wheel fell off back in the Simpson desert.

Replaced the rim with a steel one in Quilpie as well as water, fuel, groceries and dump point. So all fresh to go on except Sharon insisted we slow down and take more time to actually do things except drive. I was locked into my normal routine of returning to Corryong asap. And that wasn’t what we were supposed to be doing.  We’re booked into Charlotte Plains campground to use their hot water baths for a couple of nights. So I can reset my mindset to a different routine while we recover from the driving.

Charlotte Plains had about 50 camps scattered randomly with only about 10 sites formally allocated to vans on the waterfront of the bore drain. Sulphur smell was very strong along the drain and in the baths, but we didn’t notice it after a while.  There were about 6 bathtubs spread along the drain and another 7 with a communal tank near the office and bar. Water at over 40 C at the main area and cooler as you went away. Bar only open a couple of hours a day, so people tended to camp wherever they felt, and I’d suspect many didn’t bother paying their $40 a night. Very expensive for what you got. 

We stayed out two nights and had a hot bath each day, then had to shower the smell and salt off.

We discussed a plan for the rest of the trip and decided that we needed a goal besides getting home.  We thought we might travel down the darling river to Wentworth and see the mixing of the water, then follow on down the Murray to Seymour or home. Whatever. Slowly.

Starting with the drive to Bourke, finally getting into NSW and our first camp on the Darling at Mays Bend, north of Bourke. Lovely spot, but with a steep climb into and out of a gully to get away from the crowd. Two nights above the river with a few birds and a 5km walk following the river around a sweeping bend. Then exiting the camp I missed seeing an overhanging tree and caught it with the awning. Broke both latches and one of the gas struts supporting the roof. And cracked open the roof itself. And more holes in the awning.  Not a good morning.

Into Bourke on Monday 2nd morning and water, dump, fuel and groceries.  Lunch in a bakery to decide what to do. We realised that the slow way will be ten days to Corryong, leaving us only one or two before we go to Seymour. So we made the decision to go home by Wednesday, and headed south through Cobar just for a change. Camped about 85 km south at Sandy Creek.

Beautiful days drive through flowering canola crops and roadside flowers on back roads with very little traffic or trucks. Finished the day at Barellan Showgrounds with a powered site for the heater, $20! Yvonne Goolagong grew up here and was discovered here as a junior player. Hence the monster tennis racquet in the Main Street. Also apparently famous for its draught horses, and wagons of wool. Morning tea by the Lachlan river at Euabalong, but no sign of a ball room.

Back into Corryong.  Main road works still going on! 

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